Guest Column Archives

Bordeaux: Re-discover the city of fine wine

October 22, 2021

Post-lockdown, it is time to travel and taste wine again. Bordeaux has new places to stay and eat and there is something for every taste and budget. BTW guest columnist and Bordeaux native Brinda Bourhis explores

Like many cities around the world, Bordeaux lifted its COVID19-related lockdown and curfews in May 2021. After over 18 months of gloom, a number of new hotels and restaurants have been flourishing in this city that is home to the finest wines in the world. Although I have lived in Bordeaux for over 20 years now, discovering these new places was a new adventure, and I could see there was an eagerness to welcome back visitors – both locals and international visitors in the not-too-distant future.

Here are just a few hotels and restaurants to put on your ‘to-do list’ for your next trip to this beautiful city, where l’art de vivre forms part of its DNA!

Hotels

Renaissance Bordeaux by Marriott International

Lobby of the Renaissance Hotel, close to the Cité du Vin

Located a few minutes away from the Cité du Vin (Bordeaux’s wine museum) in the docks area, the Marriott hotel group opened this four-star hotel with 149 rooms. in June 2021. You can’t miss it: the entrance features two silos that once were oil factories in the 19^th century. This place is hip… as soon as you step foot into the lobby, you have a view of the hip Art Deco coffee shop that opens onto an urban oasis (a garden with comfy areas to hang out). The rooms have conserved a raw concrete look that is enhanced by gold leaf abstract frescos and works of art.

The key attraction is the rooftop swimming pool with a view of the city centre from the ninth floor. Although not of the same dimensions as the skyscrapers in Asia or NYC, this is quite unique in Bordeaux.

Room rates: From €200 including breakfast for a double room

Reservations: On Booking.com or the hotel website

Website: www.renaissancebordeauxhotel.com

Moxy by Marriott International

MOXY HOTEL LOBBY — A casual vibe at the lobby in the Moxy hotel

Just next door to the Renaissance is the Moxy hotel, targeting the millennials headed to Bordeaux for a short stop-over. Here the concept is ‘grab & go’- there is no fancy lobby, just an open living space where everything takes place: from digital check-in to self-service fridges for snacks or drinks. It is a spot for socializing with its bar and sofas for people to chill in, and table tennis for those seeking to be more active.

There are 133 rooms with views of the Wet Docks or the oasis garden that it shares with the Renaissance. It is ideal for friends travelling together as some of the larger rooms can accommodate up to four people.

Room rates: From €125 including breakfast for a double room

Reservations: On Booking.com or the hotel website

Website: www.moxybordeaux.com

Villas Foch

*The lobby at Villa Foch;(right) a bedroom*

If you are looking for a 5-star luxury stay in downtown Bordeaux, Villas Foch is a boutique 20-bedroom hotel near the Places des Quinconces, the biggest square in Europe. Set in a quiet street, the interior design of this hotel is exquisite with typical Girondine stone walls and sophisticated velvet and wooden furniture. The rooms are spacious, ranging from 20m2 to 65m2. You will also find a spa under a vaulted stone ceiling with its sauna and fitness centre.

Although such luxury accommodation is often occupied by wealthy foreign visitors, the hotel director is confident that once travel conditions are authorized, Villas Foch will be on the radar for clients worldwide.

Room rates: From €300 to 700 for a double room

Reservations: On Booking.com or the hotel website

Website: www.villasfoch.fr

Clos des Queyries

Airbnb is popular everywhere, however, the concept of being greeted personally and looked after by the host can no longer be taken for granted. Often, it is self-check-in, with keys in a lockbox and just email contact with the host.

At Clos des Queyries, the husband-and-wife team Sebastien and Sylvie Dehlinger live on-site and have spent 3 years totally renovating the 18th-century chateau that they bought in 2017, converting it into a 4-bedroom B&B. Slightly off the beaten track in the suburbs of Bordeaux in the Bastide area, the place is close to the tramway. This is a guesthouse with character.

The owner, Sylvie spoke to me about how she enjoyed decorating each of the 38m2 bedrooms, seeking unique pieces of furniture and objects from antique shops to give a more personal touch.

The guesthouse is surrounded by a 1200m2 garden where guests can relax in the sunshine or take their breakfast that is included in the price.

Room rates: From € 195€ to 230 including breakfast

Reservations: On Booking.com or the guesthouse website

Website: www.leclosdesqueyries.com

Hotel la Zoologie

Here is a convenient spot just a few minutes from Bordeaux’s railway station, Gare Saint-Jean. The building dates back to 1901 when it was the Institute of Zoology, a place where scientists and academics studied the life of animals and nature. Hotels T, a family-run hospitality business from Paris bought the Institute to make it into a hotel with 40 rooms. The challenge here, as the director explained, was to conserve this official historical building while creating a contemporary and practical 4-star hotel.

They achieved this by adding two wings to the original Institute with a botanical garden in the middle – a space for relaxation and fine dining. Each room is original and has a reference to nature. You’ll find forest bamboo floors, curtains in African wax fabric, and ornaments from the past.

Other services offered include a cocktail bar, restaurant, rooftop, and spa.

Room rate: From €220 to 600

Reservations: On Booking.com or the hotel website

Website: www.hotelzoologie.com

Restaurants

Avant Comptoir du Palais

Avant Comptoir tuna and raspberry — *The tuna in raspberry marinade at Chef Camdeborde’s Avant Comptoir restaurant*

Bordeaux is quite close to Spain, famous for its tapas (small portions of cold and hot food). Julien Camdeborde, a young Chef decided to open his own style of a tapas eatery in the heart of Bordeaux. Here, the convivial atmosphere is matched with a choice of over 60 tapas. Lift your gaze to the ceiling and you will see the complete menu featured in numerous small posters with the tapas and their photos.

Julien is originally from the South-West of France, and his idea is to offer not only traditional Spanish tapas such as tortillas or ham croquetas but also more original tapas made with local ingredients. At Avant Comptoir, you can savour raw tuna in raspberry marinade, beef croque monsieur, fried squid with chorizo and pomegranate.

Prices for each tapas start from €8

Address: 2 Place du Palais, 33000 Bordeaux

Man Mo

This restaurant is a creation of five friends who once lived in Hong Kong, then moved back to Bordeaux and decided to open a place serving dim sum.

Located in the trendy Place des Chartrons, the dim sum recipes have been revisited with a French touch. For example, you will find dim sum with foie gras, scallops, or even the French creamy cheese Brie with truffle. The restaurant also serves more classical Chinese dishes with noodles, wok-fried vegetables, and soup.

Prices: Menu around €30

Address: 8 Place des Chartrons, 33000 Bordeaux

Restaurant La Zoologie

*The restaurant at the Hotel la Zoologie*

As mentioned above, Hotel la Zoologie has a restaurant that is open not only to its guests but also to the public.

From the dining room inside the hotel, you can have an open view of the kitchen where you can see the chef and his team at work, cooking delicious dishes to enjoy either inside or out in the hotel’s botanical garden.

The food here is simple and tasty, made with fresh local ingredients.

The chef, Ronan Ozon prepares dishes such as tataki of salmon, filet of duck with polenta and vegetable tart, praline cream with meringue sticks, each beautifully presented: a delight for your eyes and tastebuds.

Prices: 3-course lunch menu €25

Address: 151 cours de la Marne, 33000 Bordeaux

About Brinda Bourhis

After five years working for a major Bordeaux wine merchant, British-born Brinda Bourhis has solid knowledge and experience of the wines of one of the finest regions in the world: Bordeaux.
She owns Winevox, a company that provides quality wine education including the WSET course, wine marketing and translations for the French wine industry.
Winevox also runs an on-going ambassador programme in the US for the Crus Bourgeois du Medoc, organising masterclasses at top universities such as Stanford, Columbia, Yale, and staff-training for wine retail stores as well as tastings for private wine clubs and associations.

Cover image: Borja Lopez/pexels

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Guest Column

Are champagne flutes a thing of the past?

January 10, 2020

Flutes, coupes or tulips… which of these glasses do you drink your Champagne from? Champagne-based wine professional Jiles Halling examines the pros and cons of each type of glass in his guest column

If you go back far enough in history it seems that, even as long ago as the late 17^th century when Champagne first appeared on the scene, there was a variety of shapes and sizes of glass to choose from. Short and stubby, tall and narrow, clear glass and opaque glass (the latter was common before riddling and disgorging had been perfected and champagne was often a bit murky).

Sometime later, perhaps around the time of Louis XVI, although some say rather earlier, the coupe glass made an appearance and, in one variation or another, the coupe remained popular through Victorian times, to the roaring 20s, on into the Hollywood era of the 1950s and even beyond.

Perhaps it’s because of the associations with those, apparently, glamourous times in the past that the coupe glass has a certain nostalgia attached to it: there’s nothing to match coupe glasses for building a champagne pyramid and to this day the coupe is still regarded as the perfect glass for many cocktails. You only have to look at the Moet Golden Hour glass used at this year’s Golden Globe awards.

Champagne served in coupes. Image: Billy Huynh/Unsplash

The criticism often levelled at coupe glasses is that the aromas dissipate before they can be really appreciated and that the effervescence dies away too quickly.

The first accusation is certainly correct – the aromas spread out sideways rather than being focussed upwards towards the nose, but the part about the bubbles dying away too quickly always seems irrelevant to me because the bubbles in Champagne persist for far longer than it takes an average person to finish the glass anyway.

Be that as it may, by the time the 1970s arrived the coupe was falling out of favour and being replaced by the tall and narrow flute.

Flute glasses are certainly elegant – an ideal match with the imagery of Champagne. What’s more, you can see and appreciate the bubbles rising up the glass and, as long as the top of the glass curves inwards rather than outwards, you can get a good impression of the aromas of the wine.

Champagne flutes. Image: Deleece Cook/Unsplash

So you might have expected the popularity of the flute to be unchallenged for many a year yet, but recently the preeminent position of the flute is being questioned in some quarters.

These days there is a growing body of opinion, especially amongst more practiced champagne drinkers, that holds that flutes are too tall and narrow to appreciate the full complexity of champagne. They’re just not wide enough to swirl the wine and release the aromas and if you insist on trying to swirl the Champagne around in a flute you’ll probably slop it inelegantly over the sides and over your hand too.

The answer, according to this side of the debate, is to go for a much larger, rounder glass, more akin to the type of glass you’d use to serve still white or red wine, and a plethora of variations on this theme are being put forward as the perfect solution by wine writers, glass manufacturers, sommeliers and commentators of all sorts.

Some of the leading Champagne houses, including Veuve Clicquot are advocating larger glasses so that you can add ice cubes to your champagne.

One of the reasons behind the increasing use of larger glasses for champagne is the fact that, for some years now, Champagne houses have been at pains to present Champagne in a rather more ‘serious’ light and to emphasise its qualities as a gastronomic wine to be matched with a wide variety of foods and served during, and perhaps even throughout, a meal.

If you have never had this experience, I can highly recommend it. There are so many different types and styles of Champagne that you can find one to match almost every kind of cuisine imaginable, from the first course to the dessert.

However, with so many conflicting opinions and so many glasses to choose from, making that choice can be a burden as well as a blessing.

It becomes a problem when things become too dogmatic and that can easily happen if you feel under pressure to use one type of glass or another for fear of being seen as unsophisticated, old-fashioned or ignorant if you don’t use the ‘correct ‘ type of glass.

It becomes a blessing when you have the freedom to choose the glasses according to your own preference and to the occasion.

The coupe remains a classic. Image: Rebecca Wiggins/ Unsplash

My own thoughts are that:

Coupe glasses are still ideal for Champagne cocktails and to add an unexpected bit of fun to the party.
Flute glasses are far from a thing of the past. They’re perfect for classic Champagne receptions when people just want to celebrate some special occasion.
Wider, rounder glasses are a good choice when you are serving older Champagnes, probably during a meal, to experienced wine lovers who all have the time and interest to discuss the finer characteristics of the Champagne in the glass.

And the best possible solution?

Try all three types and make up your own mind which you prefer.

Jiles Halling is an Englishman whose career in marketing and sales for major international wines and spirits brands took him to the USA and Japan before spending 17 years living and working in Champagne. Jiles is the creator of My Champagne Expert – a brand new, comprehensive online course all about Champagne and other books and guides on Champagne.

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Guest Column / Taste of Food and Wine

Wines of Bourgogne: Worries weigh, but hope floats

December 23, 2019

As I was heading to Bourgogne to meet with Ruma for our Hospices de Beaune experience at the end of November, I was reading online various articles about how Bordeaux wines were coping with the current economic events: Brexit, Trump taxes and social protests in Hong Kong. The news was not promising, with turnover figures in the red for Bordeaux wines.

Export sales are down by 9%, the main countries affected by this drop in volumes being UK (-3%), China (-27%), Hong Kong (-22%). However, the USA has seen an increase of 4%. (source CIVB, figures end September 2019)

We need to take into consideration when looking at such figures, that Bourgogne produces much less wine than Bordeaux (1.41 million hectolitres vs 5.1 million hectolitres for Bordeaux).

I was curious to find out how France’s other fine wine region – Bourgogne, was facing the turmoil in such key markets.

During our visit to Bourgogne, I received inputs on this from leading figures in the Bourgogne wine industry.

Louis-Fabrice Latour – Vice President, BIVB

At a press conference prior to the Hospices wine auction, Vice President of the Bourgogne Wine Council (BIVB) set out the global picture of export sales for the first 8 months of 2019.

Louis-Fabrice Latour: ‘We are lucky, here in Bourgogne’

Despite a rather gloomy global climate, Bourgogne wines are actually doing quite well, with an increase of 6% in volume for their export markets (+ 9.3% in value). The graph below shows the positive indicators for the major markets.

“We are lucky here in Bourgogne compared to other vineyards in France such as Bordeaux who are seeing a drop in their exports,” said Latour.

Regarding the USA, Bourgogne’s first export market, the Boeing/Airbus disputes around EU subsidies have been going on for a long time. President Trump suddenly decided to retaliate in October by adding 25% taxes on imported wines to the US, those with under 14 percent alcohol. “A third of French wines are affected by these taxes, including Bourgogne” explained Latour. He added that the actual drop in sales to the USA will only be apparent in early 2020. His instinctive feeling was that American distributors were not very supportive of the Bourgogne producers, often postponing orders to next year in the hope that the taxes will be removed. Until and if this happens, Latour foresees the possible increase in bulk wine sales to the US; these are not subjected to Trump’s taxes.

Guillaume d’Angerville – Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay

This domaine in Volnay that has been in the same family for 200 years, is headed by Guillaume d’Angerville who knows quite a bit about the world economy having spent several years in banking and finance before returning to the family wine business. As with many estates in Bourgogne, Marquis d’Angerville’s three top markets are the USA, the UK, and Japan, in that order. He did not seem too concerned about the UK and Brexit issues. “I don’t think we will have less demand but maybe shipping will become complex, requiring more paperwork and border controls.” He is also seeking to develop the Asian market, placing his fine Volnay wines in Korea, Singapore, and India.

Guillaume d’Angerville: “Shipping wines to the US might become more complex’

Christian Ciamos – Maison Albert Bichot

When it comes to sales strategy, Christian Ciamos has it carefully thought out for the 85 countries that consist of their export market. “We do not have a single market that has more than 10% of our turnover. We balance our sales by applying an allocation system” explained Ciamos.

With regard to the USA, Bichot has 8 full-time staff covering the country, and they are currently trying to convince their importers to help them in the Trump tax issue. This is vital as a short term strategy as Ciamos does not see the taxes being wiped out at least until the next elections in November 2020.

As for Hong Kong, Bichot has been hit with a 20-25% sales drop due to the social protests. “We now ship direct to Shenzhen rather than Hong Kong, which means we have the additional Chinese taxes, but at least we can get our wines in the country,” he said.

Christian Ciamos: ‘No market has more than 10% of our turnover’

Daniele Bonnardot – Domaine Bonnardot

Daniele Bonnardot took over her parents’ domaine a few years ago, producing wines in Hautes-Cotes de Nuits. During her parents’ time, there was no wine being exported at all, so Bonnardot is building each market from scratch. Luckily, her former career in IT which took her to live in both the US and the UK, enables her to have some sort of understanding of the markets.

“I received my first order from the USA in November, but with the tax issue, I was expecting my client to cancel. He has maintained the order but has decided to buy less, saying he’ll place another order sometime in 2020,” explained Bonnardot. For her UK sales, it is business as usual for the moment. “Our importer in England was talking of stocking up before 31^st October when Brexit was supposed to go through. Finally, he decided to the contrary and is placing orders as needed,” she added.

The domaine now exports 10% of their wines, with the hope of increasing quantities, but the uncertainties that are lingering in the world economy makes it hard to have a steady, long term perspective.

Wines of Bourgogne (Burgundy) are available in India through leading importers:

Albert Bichot wines at leading all-India retailers: Aspri Spirits, Mumbai
http://asprispirits.com/

Marquis d’Angerville wines: Rajiv Kher Selections LLP, Delhi

About Brinda Bourhis

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Guest Column / Interviews

‘We can transfer technology but not terroir’

August 30, 2019

BTW Bordeaux-based guest columnist Brinda Bourhis travels to Château Cabidos in the South-West of France and meets award-winning wine maker Méo Sakorn-Sériès from Thailand

This summer I met Peggy Alday. She is the owner, along with her husband, Robert, of Château Cabidos located in South-West France. We met in Saint Jean de Luz, seaside resort in the Basque country where the Aldays live. Peggy spoke to me about her estate, purchased in 2015. From the way she described the winery, I pictured a Tuscan scene with a 13^th century stone-clad chateau dominating over several hectares of vines planted with Petit Manseng, the local grape variety.

She also spoke highly of her award-winning wine maker, Méo Sakorn-Sériès, who just happens to come from Thailand. I was thus very keen to see all of this for myself and to chat to the only female Thai winemaker in France, so I planned to visit the winery the next day.

On my way to Château Cabidos from Saint Jean de Luz, I drove past fields of wheat, corn and farmyards – there were no vines in sight. It was only as I neared the estate that all of a sudden I saw a majestic building perched on a hilltop surrounded by vines. As Peggy Alday had described it, there was a sense of Tuscany in the air. Back in my home in the Médoc, the land is rather flat, and the presence of the Gironde estuary is dominant whereas in the South-West and particularly in the case of Cabidos, the vines are inland, far from the ocean. With hardly any other wine estates in the vicinity, I was fully focused on Château Cabidos, encompassed by its cypress trees, beautiful gardens and undulating vines.

Excerpts from my interview with Méo Sakorn-Sériès, Thai winemaker at
Château Cabidos.

The vines at Chateau Cabidos.
Main pic: Chateau Cabidos
Thai winemaker Méo Sakorn-Sériès at Chateau Cabidos

When did you arrive in France?

In 1997. Before that, I met my (French) husband in Thailand where he was working for an association.

How did you get into wine?

Well, first of all, it was my father-in-law who introduced me to wine, and I remember the first bottle he gave me to taste – Chateau Haut-Brion! But it was when my husband and I moved to Bordeaux that I began studying wine at a school for adult training. Through these studies I did internships at several estates including Chateau Pape-Clément. I learnt how to prune and how to punch down the caps, which were both very physical tasks.

What experience of winemaking do you have in Asia?

After my studies, I was contacted by Red Bull who was in the process of planting a vineyard in Thailand (Siam Winery). They wanted to produce a ‘noble’ drink, contrary to the energy drinks associated to the brand. The company had a floating vineyard in central Thailand, but only produced table wine. They asked me to find a suitable spot to plant quality Syrah and Chenin Blanc. There was a field of pineapples 3 hours away from Bangkok that seemed appropriate, so the pineapples were pulled out and replaced by vines…

In my opinion, if you can sell locally, then winemaking in Asia is not a challenge. However, we can transfer technology but not terroir. This notion of terroir I find applies to France and the Old World… not necessarily to Thailand.

When did you begin working at Château Cabidos?

In 2007, a friend of mine was working at Cabidos and she asked me to come and help during pruning. Immediately after, I was not only asked to stay but I was offered the position of technical manager at the estate.

What wines do you produce at Cabidos?

We have 9 hectares, mainly planted with Petit Manseng which we use to produce both a dry and a sweet white wine. We have a little Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The wines come under the appellation IGP Comté Tolosan. The Petit Manseng is ideal for ‘passerillage’ and in the area of Cabidos, the sunny autumns enable the grapes to dry naturally on the vines and develop a high concentration of sugar. I vinify in small vats (the smallest being 10 hectolitres) and have a cold room to store the vats to ensure the temperature is controlled.

Le Luy Doux
Gaston Phoebus Doux

What plans do you have at Cabidos for the future?

We are in the first year of conversion to organic viticulture. Our vines are in the heart of a rich natural environment, and for years we have endeavoured to preserve the biodiversity.

We are also looking into planting forgotten grape varieties such as Castets that has just recently received approval for planting in Bordeaux. At Cabidos, we are lucky to have the expert advice from a British Master of Wine, Minette Constant who has lived in the area for many years. Minette is doing research on such varieties as well as resistant grapes that could be suitable for our organic production.

In terms of the market, we have less demand for sweet wines
– a global issue – so we will aim to produce more dry whites.

You have worked in France for over 20 years now. What is it like being an Asian woman in the French wine industry?

France is steeped in tradition but I have not found it difficult or a challenge being an Asian and a woman working in wine. It seems that my work has been recognised as I was awarded in 2017 the ‘Chevalier de l’Ordre National du Mérite’ by the French Government!

The chai at Chateau Cobidus

Wines from Chateau Cabidos:
Le Pic dry white: 50% Sauvignon, 40% Chardonnay, 10% Petit Manseng
Gaston Phoebus Petit Manseng dry white
Le Luy sweet white (75g residual sugar)
Saint Clément sweet white (110g residual sugar)
Gaston Phoebus sweet white (140g residual sugar)
L’Or de Cabidos sweet white (150g residual sugar)

Markets: 40% export (UK, USA, Japan, Dubai, Canada etc), mainly to high-end and Michelin star restaurants

60% domestic, including cellar door sales.

A new importer in India should be listing wines by end of the year for Le Luy Doux and Gaston Phoebus Doux: TRIADSS FOODS AND BEVERAGES PRIVATE LIMITED. (Chennai)

Website: www.chateau-de-cabidos.com

About Brinda Bourhis

After five years working for a major Bordeaux wine merchant, British-born Brinda Bourhis has a solid knowledge and experience of the wines of the one of the finest regions in the world: Bordeaux.
She owns Winevox, a company that provides quality wine education including the WSET course, wine marketing and translations for the French wine industry.
Winevox also runs an on-going ambassador programme in the US for the Crus Bourgeois du Medoc, organising masterclasses at top universities such as Stanford, Columbia, Yale, and staff-training for wine retail stores as well as tastings for private wine clubs and associations.

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Guest Column

‘We have pioneered the use of drones in precision viticulture’

June 30, 2018

Bernard Magrez, multi-millionaire, visionary and innovator of Bordeaux, is regarded as a legend.

This is because age hasn’t slowed his efforts to constantly strive for perfection, whether with his wines or his luxury hotel and restaurant empire. Magrez’ expanding international wine empire contains some properties known for their very high-quality wine. Much of this is because he refuses to rest on his laurels, constantly seeking improvement, reinvention, and modernization. Watching him sit through meeting after meeting through three hectic days of Vinexpo Hong Kong was watching a lesson in tenacity and stamina.

BTW guest columnist and Bordeaux-based wine professional Brinda Bourhis interviewed the legendary wine producer about his latest achievements which includes the introduction of cutting-edge technology in his vineyards. Read on…

Bernard Magrez. Main photo: The cellars at Chateau Pape Clement

If I had to name the top innovators and pioneers in Bordeaux’s wine industry, Bernard Magrez would definitely top the list. His energy is unbeatable, especially considering he is 82 years old…He is constantly seeking perfection in the 42 vineyards that he owns in France and in eight other countries (Spain, Portugal, Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, Japan, the United States and Morocco).

I spoke to M. Magrez about the recent initiatives he has undertaken in the vines and his ambitions for the near future.

You have just got back from the 20th edition of Vinexpo Asia in Hong Kong. How did it go?

For our booth, the fair was very successful. Not only did we receive our current and historic clients seeking to add wines to their portfolio, but we also did business with new ones.

What percentage of export sales does Asia represent for the wines of Vignobles Bernard Magrez?

It is a big proportion – 60%.

A drone takes to the air at Chateau Pape Clement

Do you think that India could one day become a new el-dorado for French wines?

Yes, I do. This will happen once the (Indian) taxes drop.

You own 4 Grands Crus Classés estates* in Bordeaux, what are your ambitions?

We aim to become leaders in the international wine market, not only through the Grands Crus that I own but also my estates in Côtes-du-Rhône, Languedoc, Roussillon, and Provence.

Despite owning relatively ancient and historic estates, you are also a pioneer when it comes to technological advances used in the vines and cellar. Can you tell us more about this?

We are the only group of estates in Bordeaux to have a service dedicated to research and development. We have invested in various equipment such as robots, drones, that are key to the protection of the environment.

For example, at Château Pape Clement we have two electric tractors that perform multiple tasks in the vineyards. They are charged with a battery and do not generate any CO₂ emissions.

Vignobles Bernard Magrez, a pioneer in the use of drones in precision viticulture, now has two drones capable of specifically detecting mildew. This innovation is crucial in the management of vineyard spray treatments because the map showing disease distribution is installed directly onboard the tractors.

These are just some examples of the technical progress we are making.

You are the owner of 42 vineyards in France and abroad. How do you face the competition in terms of worldwide sales?

The fact that I own so many vineyards in France and in eight other countries enables us to offer a very wide range of products that our competitors are unable to do. Our client base is also more diverse as a result.

What are your projects and objectives for the remainder of 2018?

The objective is to reinforce our position as leaders in wine tourism in France. Through this activity, we can attract a maximum number of wine enthusiasts from across the world who are eager to discover the secrets of our four Grands Crus Classés estates in Bordeaux.

*4 Grands Crus Classés estates owned by Bernard Magrez

Château Pape Clément, Grand Cru Classé de Graves
A Cru Classé of Graves, this property has a rich and ancient history. It was originally planted in 1300 by Bertrand de Goth, the future Pope Clément V, after whom the property was named. Château Pape Clement is famous for its elegant, fine red wines of great structure and finesse, including its 2009 vintage which was awarded 100 points by wine critic Robert Parker. Visits and stays permitted through prior booking.
Château Fombrauge, Grand Cru Classé de Saint-Emilion
A historic château on the Right Bank, it is a Grands Cru Classé property making refined and precision-driven reds and whites, known for its combination of ancient winemaking traditions with modern techniques. Visits and stays permitted through prior booking.
Château La Tour Carnet, Grand Cru Classé en 1855 Médoc
Beyond the classic, moat, drawbridge, and tower of Château La Tour Carnet, lies a cellar known for its quality, full-bodied red wines. Visits and stays permitted through prior booking.
Clos Haut Peyraguey, Premier Grand Cru Classé en 1855 Sauternes
Visits and tasting permitted at this Grand Cru Classé Sauternes estate.

Website: www. bernard-magrez.com

Bernard Magrez Luxury Wine Experience: http://www.luxurywineexperience.com

About Brinda Bourhis

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Guest Column / Interviews

‘There is no instant 0 to 100 in wine learning’

June 20, 2018

One of India’s top importers of wine, Vishal Kadakia is known as the ‘wine storyteller’ in Indian wine circles. For him, wine is not a product, it is a living thing around which stories have been woven. To enjoy that wine, you must listen to its story. He has more than a few to tell, usually around a table, while tasting wine.

In his guest column, Vishal describes how, to love wine, you must give it time to make a place in your soul. There are no shortcuts to understanding wine.

I started drinking wine when I was in my engineering college in 1993. At the time it was just another type of alcohol to me, like beer or Old Monk. I didn’t really understand much about wine nor did or care too much about it. I enjoyed drinking it occasionally, so I did. Fast forward to 1997 during my Master’s programme in Boston. My roommate and I would buy tetrapaks of wine to drink ($5.99 for a 2-litre white Zinfandel). I’m not really sure why, but I know we grew to like it. Once in a while, we would buy a bottle for $10 and it was a mini treat. In 1999, I moved to Memphis to take up my first job assignment. I made some European friends who were from Memphis University and usually drank wine. So with some dollars in my pocket from the new job, I began exploring wines from $10 and going as high as $20, but never beyond.

Drinking my very first Burgundy, Savigny Le Beaune from Simon Size in Paris, 2003. Photo: Vishal’s archives

I really began to understand wine in 2000, a good seven years after the time I began drinking it. When I look back now, that seven-year period was the most important time of my wine-drinking life. With the luxury of time on my hands, I moved from not caring about very much about wine to becoming very curious about it; this wine learning was a gradual progression. in 2000, a dinner at a French restaurant with some nice wines raised my curiosity levels higher, and this prompted me to do a wine course in 2002. The course gave me formal knowledge of wines. Then in 2003, came a trip to Burgundy. This sealed it. This was the moment when I knew I wanted to work with wine.

Those 10 years, from 1993 to 2003, turned out to be very important to me. There is usually a similar period in every wine enthusiast’s life during which he learns to appreciate and understand wine slowly, without any need for competitive wine learning. Today’s generation wants to go from 0 to 100 in an instant; they feel that by doing multiple courses, they will ‘grow’ into liking wine – or even worse! – turn into instant wine experts. But I have seen that this is far from the truth. This form of rapid learning ends up mere degrees or qualifications on a resume. That’s it. I draw the analogy of a young graduate finishing college and jumping into an MBA straight away without any hands-on business know-how. He might be great in theory but zero in implementation.

Sharing a Rosemount Shiraz with friends at home in Boston, 2002. Photo: Vishal’s archives

Wine is a ‘touch, feel and taste’ kind of a subject. Unless you have drunk enough, travelled enough and given considerable time for appreciation, you will never get under the skin of the subject of wine. You will never be able to move beyond the ‘fruit, tannins, acidity’ terminologies. They say that you never really learn a new language until you start dreaming in it. Wine is like that – if the mind does not transport you to the vineyards, the winery; until you begin to grasp the intricacies of winemaking and terroir; feel that indescribable madness at the first whiff of the aromas of a wine, the thrilling anticipation of its first taste, you have no business calling yourself a wine expert… (but a wine learner – yes, that is a possibility you can learn to live with).

The wine world is very humbling and can take you from 100 to zero in a jiffy (try doing a blind tasting).

Never the opposite.

About Vishal Kadakia

Vishal is a wine aficionado whose passion for wines led him to start Wine Park, a company that imports and distributes fine wines throughout India and Maldives. He has done his WSET Level 2 and is a Master of Science from University of Massachusetts. He worked in Boston for 8 years before relocating to India.

An importer for 9 years, Vishal’s vision is to make wine more accessible by educating the end-consumers. He launched Wine Kart, a website designed to make wine knowledge easy and lively, including details of the wide selection of wines imported by Wine Park. He recently launched an Indian wine, The Daily Dose which has a funky label showing the winemaking process.

Vishal is an avid runner, having run several marathons, and is also the director in his family-run business.

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Guest Column

From Bordeaux with love: a wishlist for 2018

February 2, 2018

A great vintage, more tourism, new appellations, and a desire to preserve Nature’s bounty….these are some of what the Bordeaux’s wine industry’s movers and shakers have on top of their wishlist for 2018

We are already well into the New Year of 2018 and the wine professionals of Bordeaux are filling up their freshly-opened diaries with numerous events, tastings and tours scheduled for the next 12 months. Brinda Bourhis, guest columnist, Between the Wines spoke to key personalities in the Bordeaux wine industry to discover what they were hoping that 2018 would bring for the world of wine… and particularly for Bordeaux wine.

Alexander de Lur Saluces

‘Appellation Sauternes’

Alexandre de Lur Saluces

Owner, Château de Fargues, Sauternes

“I am hoping that Sauternes is put back in its place as an appellation. Sauternes is too unfairly forgotten in many countries, including France, and is an extraordinary wine, unique in the world, full of life and joie de vivre.

Recognizable for its golden look, this wine can brighten a world in need of happiness to face the difficulties of life that fill the pages of newspapers.”

Nicolas Mähler-Besse

‘A great 2018 vintage and growth in India’

Nicolas Mähler-Besse,

CEO, Seguin Moreau Cooperage

“In 2018, I wish for Bordeaux to produce a great vintage with good volumes of wine after having suffered from frost in April 2017. This could happen, because after the other big frost (in 1991) the following vintage, 1992 was a pretty big harvest!

Also, I’d like the Indian wine market to continue to grow. We have already several very good local producers using our barrels like Sula or Grover, who are advised by famous wine consultants. I see the quality has been improving constantly over the last few years! I wish them a great 2018 harvest too!”

Catharine Leparmentier Dayot

‘Bordeaux, wine tourism’s world capital!’

Catherine Leparmentier Dayot

Managing director, Great Wine Capitals Global Network

“I wish Bordeaux, the wine capital of the world, becomes the wine tourism capital of the world!

We are so very lucky to belong to the Great Wine Capitals Global Network that sets Bordeaux on the top 10 wine destinations list. We certainly have the assets to hit the first place now with the incredible Cité du Vin which just welcomed their 425,000th visitor. And 2018 will also celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Bordeaux Wine Festival – we are expecting more than 650,000 visitors!

I also wish the tourists find their way to the Bordeaux vineyards and live these unique wine tourism experiences! More and more chateaux are ready to welcome international visitors with high-end offerings in terms of amazing architecture in their cellars, playful tasting classes, great food or romantic accommodation.”

Hubert de Boüard and Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal

‘Respect for Nature and her bounty’

Hubert de Boüard and his daughter Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal

Owners, Château Angelus (Premier Grand Cru Classé A, St Emilion)

“Our first wish is for Nature to offer us beautiful grapes in good quantities. The demand for wine is continuing to grow around the globe and in new markets, India being one of them. People are also seeking exceptional wines such as those of Château Angelus.

Our second wish is to have vines cultivated with respect to the ecosystem in order to protect our environment and to conserve what has been passed onto us.”

Philippe Larche

‘A productive harvest’

Philippe Larche

Export director, Vintex wine merchants

“The world of wine is in constant evolution, and merchants and producers have to constantly adapt to the situation (climate conditions, economic conjecture, change of tastes, the emergence of new markets…)

This year the Bordeaux wine industry will face the challenge of a small 2017 harvest. Our challenge will be to manage it as smoothly as possible so that it does not affect our traditional markets and so that we do not lose market share. But I trust the Bordeaux trade to manage that.
I cross my fingers for a more productive crop in 2018 and the pursuit of that trend that drives us to a wine-making process that is more eco-friendly and bio-sensitive.

Both China and the USA should confirm their almost equal status as number one importers of Bordeaux wines, which offers us a great perspective of development still to come.”

Philippe Massol

‘Appreciation for wine worldwide’

Philippe Massol

Managing director, Cité du Vin

“I have just one wish: to have more cultural recognition and appreciation for the world of wine.”

About Brinda Bourhis

After five years working for a major Bordeaux wine merchant, British-born Brinda
Bourhis has a solid knowledge and experience of the wines of the one of the finest
regions in the world: Bordeaux.
She owns Winevox, a company that provides quality wine education including the
WSET course, wine marketing and translations for the French wine industry.
Winevox also runs an on-going ambassador programme in the US for the Crus Bourgeois du Medoc, organising masterclasses at top universities such as Stanford, Columbia, Yale and staff-training for wine retail stores as well as tastings for private wine clubs and associations.

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Guest Column

‘We were inspired by wine museums in Rioja, Barolo’

December 4, 2017

Sylvie Cazes, president, Cité du Vin, Bordeaux. The wine museum is in the background.

Cité du Vin is the world’s most famous museum of wine, it is based in Bordeaux. Meet Sylvie Cazes, the powerhouse woman who runs it

The Bordeaux wine industry is made up of many dynamic men and women, but there is one lady who stands out for her passion and determination, a prominent figure for this prestigious wine region – Sylvie Cazes. For nearly 30 years now, Sylvie has been an active ambassador for Bordeaux wines through the various positions she has occupied in the past (such as president of the Union des Grands Crus, communications director of Axa-Millésimes and the JM Cazes family estates).

Today, not only is she president of Bordeaux’s famous new museum of wine, Cité du Vin, but also owns Bordeaux Saveurs a high-end wine tourism agency, Le Chapon Fin a fine-dining restaurant in the city-centre and Château Chauvin, a St Emilion Grand Cru estate purchased in 2013.

A view of the audio-visual display at the Cite du Vin, The Art of Living. Photo: Anaka Casson-Mann Cite du Vin

When did you first get into the Bordeaux wine business?

In 1989, I joined my brother Jean-Michel Cazes in the group made up of AXA-Millésimes properties (including Château Pichon-Longueville) and Cazes family properties (including Château Lynch-Bages). Prior to that, I was teaching English in a secondary school for seven years.

What is a typical day for you as president of the Cité du Vin?

I would not say there is a typical day for me at the Cité du Vin, as my daily work is split between my various activities. For example, I might spend the morning on the phone with Philippe Massol, Director of the museum, to discuss pending issues. In the afternoon, I might be in a meeting for Château Chauvin then back to the Cité to accompany important visitors. Lunch or dinner would be at the Chapon Fin, of course!

Which other wine museums in the world would you recommend visiting?

We were inspired by the Vivanco museum of wine culture in Rioja, Spain, and the Guinness House in Dublin. But I also really love Castello di Barolo in Italy, a cute wine museum in a magical setting.

What is your favourite attraction at the Cité du Vin?

“The Banquet of Legends” which is an audio-visual production, where famous personalities down the ages speak about their favourite wine during an amazing banquet. It’s quite funny. (See images, above)

I also like “The Art of Living”, which presents wines around the French art of gastronomy and the history of the service of wine.

What are the top three places that a visitor should not miss when visiting Bordeaux’s city centre?

The Opera is worth a visit. Just nearby, I recommend walking to the Place du Chapelet, a small square with a church where you can find a lovely bronze statue of the famous Spanish artist Goya.
And for a good place to shop, there are plenty of souvenirs and gifts to be found at the Cité du Vin shop.

When you are not drinking Bordeaux wine, which is your favourite wine region?

For red wine, I like the Rhône valley wines and Californian ones, too. For whites, I enjoy Alsace.

If you were not working in wine, what business would you have liked to be in?

I enjoy any type of business that is connected to creativity and communication. For example, I could imagine myself working in an advertising agency.

Have you ever been to India, and what are your thoughts on the evolution of the wine market there?

My first visit to India was when I was 27 years old. I went on the Amarnath pilgrimage in Kashmir, it was a wonderful experience and a great way to meet the locals.

After that, I made several trips for business. The wine market in India has great potential but still has barriers including high taxes and the relatively strong whisky lobby.

However, I feel there is a real opportunity with a refinement in culture and cuisine. Indian dishes are so varied and there is a trend towards finesse, that will pair well with a vast diversity of imported wines.

Book your visit and explore the wine museum at: http://www.laciteduvin.com/en

After five years working for a major Bordeaux wine merchant, British-born Brinda Bourhis has a solid knowledge and experience of the wines of the one of the finest regions in the world: Bordeaux.
She owns Winevox, a company that provides quality wine education including the WSET course, wine marketing and translations for the French wine industry.
Winevox also runs an on-going ambassador programme in the US for the Crus Bourgeois du Medoc, organising masterclasses at top universities such as Stanford, Columbia, Yale and staff-training for wine retail stores as well as tastings for private wine clubs and associations.

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Guest Column

‘Ninety per cent of Bordeaux’s Grand Cru châteaux are open for visits and tastings’

September 28, 2017

The Grands Crus Classés of Bordeaux include some of the most powerful names in the wine world: think of the top classified growths of Bordeaux, unparalleled in reputation and quality. The role of the Conseil des Grands Crus Classés 1855 is to provide legal protection and support to the many famous-name chateaux which come under its umbrella.

To learn a little about the GCC 1855 as it is known, here is an interview from Bordeaux with Philippe Castéja, President of the Conseil des Grands Crus Classés 1855.

Can you briefly explain the role of the Conseil des GCC 1855 today?

The 1855 Classification was created upon the request of the French Emperor Napoleon III to present the most famous Bordeaux wines at the Paris Universal Exhibition. Today, the Conseil GCC 1855 has the key role of protecting the 1855 classification and its members. There are 61 chateaux that are classified growths of Medoc from Fifth to First Growths (including one First Growth in the Graves) and 27 from Sauternes and Barsac that range from Second to First Growths, and one Premier Cru Superieur.

We build educational programmes to explain the 1855 GCC wines to future decision makers and all people interested in great wines. For example, we host masterclasses for students in schools such as Cornell University in the US, École Hôtelière de Lausanne, Switzerland, Institute of Masters of Wine UK.

The Conseil has also had books published on the wines of the 1855 classification, including one that featured a food and wine pairing with 87 wines and recipes from 87 tops chefs from around the world.

How many of the GCC 1855 chateaux are open to the public for tastings and visits?

Ninety percent of GCC 1855 châteaux are actually open for visits and tastings. Many are only by appointment but can be contacted through their websites.

The chai at Château Mouton Rothschild

Can you give some examples of chateaux involved in wine tourism and the kind of services offered to visitors?

Château Mouton Rothschild, the famous First Growth, can be visited by appointment. Here you can see the Labels Room that displays the original artworks of the labels of the bottles since 1945. www.mouton-rothschild.com

Château Prieuré Lichine set in the appellation of Margaux, has one of the biggest shops of wine accessories and gourmet products – ranging from original bottle openers, wine books, educational tools and other useful souvenirs. www.prieure-lichine.fr

Château Pichon Baron in Pauillac has a spectacular underground cellar and all visits include a tasting of three of their wines. www.pichonbaron.com

Château Marquis d’Alesme (left) in Margaux offers a multitude of visits including a guided tour of one hour 30 minutes of its landscaped gardens, plus a tasting session with paired snacks. www.marquisdalesme.wine

What are the top places that a visitor should not miss when visiting Bordeaux’s city centre?

La Cité du Vin, the great wine museum that opened just last year, the Cathedral of Pey Berland, La Vinothèque the wine shop, the Grand Theatre (Bordeaux’s opera house) and the Quays (the river banks along the Garonne river).

Château Prieuré Lichine

Have you ever been to India? What are your thoughts on the evolution of the wine market there?

I am very fond of India and have visited it many times. The Indian wine market is at its birth, and will certainly be great in the coming years. The only problem today is the various taxes applied to wine.

Philippe Castéja enjoys reading, music, and golf, and loves tasting wines “from all over the world” when he is not drinking a Grand Cru Classé wine!

For more information on the Conseil des Grands Crus Classés 1855 visit their website on http://www.crus-classes.com

About Brinda Bourhis

After five years working for a major Bordeaux wine merchant, British-born Brinda
Bourhis has a solid knowledge and experience of the wines of the one of the finest
regions in the world: Bordeaux.
She owns Winevox, a company that provides quality wine education including the
WSET course, wine marketing and translations for the French wine industry.
Winevox also runs an on-going ambassador programme in the US for the Crus Bourgeois du Medoc, organising masterclasses at top universities such as Stanford, Columbia, Yale and staff-training for wine retail stores as well as tastings for private wine clubs and associations.

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Guest Column / Interviews

Bordeaux meets Ukraine on the 45th parallel

August 12, 2017

For my first trip to Ukraine, I was not really sure what to expect. Since I was travelling with Bordeaux wine consultant Olivier Dauga, who has been visiting this country for ten years now, I knew I was in safe hands.

Ivan and Alla Plachkov with Olivier Dauga and his wife Cathy

We were on our way to Kolonist Winery situated south of the Odessa region, in an area called the Danubian Bessarabia. This was where viticulture started way back in ancient Greek time. The journey was slightly long, with a few bumpy roads (that many Indians would be quite used to) but upon arrival it was worth the wait.

The view of the vineyard was breath-taking, planted on south-western slopes leading down to the biggest fresh-water lake in Ukraine called the Yalpug.

Ivan Plachkov and his wife Alla, owners of Kolonist were excited to show me their winery that was founded in 2005, and eager to listen to Olivier Dauga’s advice on how to prepare the coming manual harvest. Ivan told me the story on how it all started, his encounter with Olivier ten years ago, his determination to produce one of the best wine brands in a country that has prospered but also been affected by wars and strict Soviet regime in the past. As an ex-minister of fuel/energy, and ex-governor of the Odessa region, Ivan is like a history book that has come alive.

Barrel tasting with the team at Kolonist

As a Bordeaux wine expert, Olivier has been offering his advice on vineyard management and winemaking techniques, without necessarily copying the Bordeaux-way, but rather adapting to Kolonist’s needs and expectations with the goal of producing wines of quality. I watched Olivier in action with the Kolonist team, tasting several batches of the wines currently undergoing ageing in barrels, and giving his opinion on the blends. Both Olivier and Ivan seemed pleased with what was being tasted, 2016 should be promising.

Walking through the rows of vines, we could see the grapes had formed and were in a healthy state. The continental climate brings warm summers, so Kolonist is lucky not to have to deal with rot. Thirty hectares of vines are planted on loamy soils that are rich in minerals and limestone. Indigenous grapes can be found such as Sukholymansky white and Odessa Black, along with international varieties: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling and Chardonnay.

My favourite from Kolonist must be the Riesling, it has nice fresh peach aromas and a touch of minerality. It paired really well with the crayfish fresh from the local Yalpug lake. The Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend is worthy of a good classic Medoc (the Bessarabia region lies at the same latitude as Bordeaux). This wine was a good match with lamb cutlets grilled on the barbeque with homemade paprika seasoning.

Twelve wines make up the range including a sparkling wine. Kolonist has an on-line shop on their website for delivery in Ukraine. For example, the Riesling retails at 9€, Chardonnay at 10€, Cabernet-Merlot at 15€ and the Bisser Sparkling 16€. The winery is still working on developing its export sales, but for those visiting Bordeaux city, you can enjoy a glass of Kolonist Riesling or Odessa Black at Vins Urbains wine bar (27 rue des Bahutiers, 33000 Bordeaux).

I highly recommend wine enthusiasts to pay a visit to Kolonist winery, they will discover lovely wines, remarkable landscapes and most of all will be received by such generous and friendly hosts the Plachkov family.

Visit theWebsite: http://kolonist.com.ua/en/winery/

About Brinda Bourhis

After five years working for a major Bordeaux wine merchant, British-born Brinda
Bourhis has a solid knowledge and experience of the wines of the one of the finest
regions in the world: Bordeaux.
She owns Winevox, a company that provides quality wine education including the
WSET course, wine marketing and translations for the French wine industry.
Winevox also runs an on-going ambassador programme in
the US for the Crus Bourgeois du Medoc, organising masterclasses at top
universities such as Stanford, Columbia, Yale and staff-training for wine retail stores
as well as tastings for private wine clubs and associations.

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Guest Column

Guest Column

Hotels

Renaissance Bordeaux by Marriott International

Moxy by Marriott International

Villas Foch

Clos des Queyries

Hotel la Zoologie

Restaurants

Avant Comptoir du Palais

Man Mo

Restaurant La Zoologie

Flutes, coupes or tulips… which of these glasses do you drink your Champagne from? Champagne-based wine professional Jiles Halling examines the pros and cons of each type of glass in his guest column

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Louis-Fabrice Latour: ‘We are lucky, here in Bourgogne’

Guillaume d’Angerville – Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay

Guillaume d’Angerville: “Shipping wines to the US might become more complex’

Christian Ciamos – Maison Albert Bichot

Christian Ciamos: ‘No market has more than 10% of our turnover’

Daniele Bonnardot – Domaine Bonnardot

BTW Bordeaux-based guest columnist Brinda Bourhis travels to Château Cabidos in the South-West of France and meets award-winning wine maker Méo Sakorn-Sériès from Thailand

In his guest column, Vishal describes how, to love wine, you must give it time to make a place in your soul. There are no shortcuts to understanding wine.

A great vintage, more tourism, new appellations, and a desire to preserve Nature’s bounty….these are some of what the Bordeaux’s wine industry’s movers and shakers have on top of their wishlist for 2018

‘Appellation Sauternes’

‘A great 2018 vintage and growth in India’

‘Bordeaux, wine tourism’s world capital!’

‘Respect for Nature and her bounty’

‘A productive harvest’

‘Appreciation for wine worldwide’

Cité du Vin is the world’s most famous museum of wine, it is based in Bordeaux. Meet Sylvie Cazes, the powerhouse woman who runs it

When did you first get into the Bordeaux wine business?

What is a typical day for you as president of the Cité du Vin?

Which other wine museums in the world would you recommend visiting?

What is your favourite attraction at the Cité du Vin?

What are the top three places that a visitor should not miss when visiting Bordeaux’s city centre?

When you are not drinking Bordeaux wine, which is your favourite wine region?

If you were not working in wine, what business would you have liked to be in?

Have you ever been to India, and what are your thoughts on the evolution of the wine market there?

Book your visit and explore the wine museum at: http://www.laciteduvin.com/en

To learn a little about the GCC 1855 as it is known, here is an interview from Bordeaux with Philippe Castéja, President of the Conseil des Grands Crus Classés 1855.

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