Beyond the Barrel: Journey Through Burgundy’s Hidden Gems
Food, wine and history…. Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy, offers many opportunities for visitors to explore the town… and taste its famous wine
Burgundy might be at the pinnacle of wine perfection for many, but I occasionally get asked, “Is there anything to do in Beaune… beyond wine?” There is. Read on for some recommendations.
Beaune is Burgundy’s wine capital, a historic, characterful small town with Roman-era ramparts and cobbled, narrow streets. Of course, exceptional wine abounds, paired with the unique, characterful food Burgundy is known for. This would keep many a gastronome more than pleased.
Here are my recommendations:
Hôtel-Dieu des Hospices Civils de Beaune
Don’t miss a tryst with history! The Hôtel-Dieu is on every tourist’s list, and rightfully so.
More popularly known as the “Hospices de Beaune”, or the Hôtel-Dieu. The name “Hospices de Beaune” is the most used, but it actually refers to the vineyards that belong to the charitable hospital, and not the monument, for which the correct name is the Hôtel-Dieu, I was informed. This unmissable piece of history may still be inextricably linked to wine (viz the world famous charity auction held annually in November, where the wines made from his famous vineyards, donated over the years, are sold to the highest bidder.)
But visitors throng the Hôtel-Dieu, the famous creation of Nicolas Rolin and his wife, Guigone de Salins, to gaze at the famed polychrome glazed tile roof, the cobblestoned courtyard, and see the famous polyptych, a work of art and beauty (see image, above).
The Hôtel-Dieu des Hospices Civils de Beaune is a charitable institution that has survived for almost six centuries thanks to the generosity of its donors and benefactors. A “palace for the poor” dedicated to the destitute sick, it has remained in operation until as recently as 1971.
Closely linked to the history of the region, and magnificent to view, the Hôtel-Dieu is an unmissable item on every Burgundy visitor’s list.
Details for visits and tickets: https://musee.hospices-de-beaune.com
Moutardarie Fallot: All about Mustard
If you think it is only Dijon that is associated with the world-famous French mustard, think again. Beaune is home to La Moutarderie Fallot, the first French museum dedicated to mustard. Using only seeds grown in Burgundy, the factory located in Beaube, introduces you to mustard making at its finest. According to tourism manager Sophie Chapuis, “The company produces about 30 different types of mustard. The most popular is Moutarde de Dijon, but some flavoured mustards are very popular too, like mustard with blackcurrant, gingerbread, honey, walnut…”Both Dijon and Beaune have a boutique-ateliers selling the famous mustard by Edmond Fallot, but in Beaune, you can book a tour to visit the factory and learn about the history of mustard making, and why Burgundy’s mustard is considered among the best in the world.
“The French like mustard when it’s really strong…it has to go up to your nose. If not, that’s not real mustard!” adds Chapuis.
Mustard mill factory visits from €12. Book https://www.fallot.com/en/parcours-de-visites
Hotel Le Cep
The five-star Hotel Le Cep provides an unforgettable experience for wine lovers. The owner, Jean-Claude Bernard, is a well-known wine aficionado, and the historic hotel with its four wine bars in the heart of Beaune is a place to taste the best of Burgundy wines. But beyond the wine, Le Cep also offers another unique experience: a one-of-its-kind 1000 sq m wellness spa – Marie de Bourgogne Holistic Spa – that offers every form of relaxation, including ayurveda and yoga – and a vegetarian wellness-accented restaurant offering Indian cuisine!
The hotel, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, offers 38 large suites among its 70 air-conditioned rooms. I often got lost in its many rooms – delightfully so!
Finally, it is all about wine
Of course, you cannot escape wine if you are in Beaune, and neither should you. This is the place to access some of the most exquisite wines in the world and experience the best of Burgundy winemaking.
Explore the vast underground network of caves that house an incredible inventory of wine. The largest and most visited is Patriarche Père et Fils (book your visit https://www.patriarche.com/en) or the famous Chateau de Pommard (https://www.chateaudepommard.com) to taste and understand the unique Burgundian concept of terroir at their Clos Marey-Monge.
Or visit one of the delightful little wine bars or acclaimed restaurants for a taste of authentic Burgundian cuisine like Chef Johan Björklund’s Le Bistro de l’Hotel (https://www.lhoteldebeaune.com/en/restaurants) or Loiseau des Vignes (https://www.bernard-loiseau.com/fr/loiseaudesvignes.html).
Explore your options at Beaune Tourism website: https://www.beaune-tourism.com.
