Paul John single malt Archives

‘The Scots are whisky-making legends, I’m a fan’

December 13, 2017

Part 2 of my interview with master distiller Michael D’Souza, maker of Kanya by Paul John, the Indian whisky recently named Asian Whisky of the Year 2018 by Jim Murray in his Whisky Bible

During Michael’s three-week tour of the US in September-October 2017, he held tastings across the towns he travelled to, from New York to Houston and Austin, Tx. At his masterclasses, he would introduce a ‘mystery dram’ among the other Paul John expressions. It was Kanya by Paul John, not released and quite unknown to the world. Michael says he wanted to see spontaneous reactions to this new single malt whisky. “People went gaga over it,” he said, “They wanted to know what it was before its release… and buy it!”

A month later, Jim Murray commended it in his Whisky Bible as Asian Whisky of the Year 2018.

If you have not heard very much about Kanya by Paul John, read up. If you’re dreaming of tasting it, line up. For only 1500 bottles are up for release in January, and each will be for Rs18,000.

Meanwhile, continuing our chat…..

For those who don’t know Michael D’Souza, the man who makes these award-winning Paul John single malts… let’s hear a little about your personal journey.

Honestly speaking, Ruma, every day is a new day for me.

Every day I see a new whisky – changes happen that fast in Goa. I taste out of 30 barrels a day and revisit these every six months… it’s not like Scotland where they have the luxury of time. And I’ve literally tasted a ‘different’ whisky each time from the same barrel!

How much time do you have for winemaking now? (Many people don’t know Michael the master distiller is also Micheal the winemaker for Big Banyan wines, also owned by John Distilleries).

The wine business has expanded and two more people have joined me to handle day-to-day operations. And of course, Lucio (Matricardi, Italian consultant winemaker for Big Banyan wines) visits annually. Now, I’m more into making whisky than wine.

Your thoughts about the whiskies of the world and what makes each special….?

I don’t compare whiskies. You can’t make a Pappy van Winkle in India or a Glenfarclas in Goa, there are many factors that make every whisky what it is. The Scots are legends in the whisky industry and I’m a big fan. There’s learning every day. The Suntory founder worked in Bowmore and improvised on his learning from there. They use similar pot stills, barrels… many other factors are the same but they finish their whisky in Japanese oak casks – which gives floral, creamy,buttery characteristics.

For instance, in Scotland’s cold weather, whisky matures slowly. In 12 years time, I can use a barrel for three cycles while they will use it for one. If something goes wrong in the barrel, I can discard it in the fourth year. They have to wait 12 years. That’s Indian whisky for you.

Your favourite whiskies at this moment?

That’s a very tough question! (Laughs)

I like Japanese whiskies – I’m a fan. I’ve enjoyed the Ichiro’s Malt from Chichibu Distillery, Yamazaki, Hakushu and Yoichi by Nikka. In Scotland, Old Pulteney is my all-time favourite, and I like Springbank from Campbeltown. From the US, I like Buffalo Trace Bourbon, and Jack Daniel’s Sinatra, a Tennessee whisky.

ICYMI, read Part 1 of the interview here.

The Visitors’ Centre for Paul John Single Malts is scheduled to open at the distillery in Goa early next year. Check the website for updates and how to book. http://pauljohnwhisky.com

Michael D’Souza at the distillery in Goa

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Kanya by Paul John is the Whisky Bible’s Asian Whisky of the Year 2018

December 10, 2017

…So I catch up for a congratulatory chat with @indianwhiskyguy, aka Michael D’Souza, the master distiller who made it and the other award-winning Paul John Single malt whiskies

The man behind the malt whisky: Master distiller Michael D’Souza

The Indian whisky brigade is on a high. Rapidly gaining admirers and fans for its elegant and expressive single malts over the last decade or so, it’s now quite ready to take on the world.

So it seems quite well-timed when globetrotting whisky expert Jim Murray, he of the acerbic wit and golden palate, chose another single malt whisky from India as Asian Whisky of the year 2018, in his latest Whisky Bible released in October this year. The whisky in question was Kanya by Paul John, a new expression from John Distilleries, maker of Paul John single malts. This achievement was no easy job, considering Kanya came up against the best whiskies from Japan, Korea and other star whisky-producing countries.

The man behind the growing portfolio of PJSM whiskies (eight expressions at the last count) is master distiller Michael D’Souza. The soft-spoken professional is virtually the antithesis of every high profile whisky ambassador in the world – no booming voice, rapid-fire marketing patter, glib turn of phrase or LOL humour. But sit for a few minutes with him, and you will discover a human encyclopaedia on whisky making.

Michael is on Instagram as @Indianwhiskyguy, and posts on social media from every exotic destination in the world. Lucky chap, I tell him. He laughs. “The hazards of my kind of travel is that I’m always working.” He clocked 150 days on the fly last year. No mean feat, that.

Excerpts from our chat:

Congratulations, Michael. For your latest creation, Kanya by Paul John being named Asian Whisky of the Year in Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible 2018.

Thank you. This expression was created out of the oldest whisky we had – 8-years-old. But remember, one year in Indian whisky-making is equivalent to four years in Scotland (due to our climate and other factors). So Kanya is equivalent to a 35-year-old Scotch whisky in terms of maturity.

It sounds quick and simple. But it’s not as easy as all that, am I right?

No, it’s not easy. There’s the danger of major wood extraction coming through in the whisky, even to the point of becoming undrinkable. With Kanya, we did achieve something not done in India so far. Next, on the cards, a 10-year-old Paul John, distilled in 2009. I’m hoping one day to produce a 12-year-old.

Of course, we are on a learning curve still. Unlike the Scots, we don’t know what will happen (to the whisky) after 25 years (of maturation).

Indian whisky. Give me some perspective on the much-vaunted age statement in our Indian scenario.

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