best Indian wines

    ‘Tis the season for some red, red wine (and white) Part 2
    December 24, 2017

    Seek and ye shall find… Several of the best Indian wines (many red and some white!)  which may be found on our retail shelves. In Part 2 of my post on my favourites, here are some more wines to sip, store or gift.  If bought from a good retailer, stored and served in optimal conditions, these will be rewarding to drink.
     Reveilo Chardonnay Reserve 2016

    Reveilo’s Yatin Patil knows his desi consumer. “Indians enjoy fruity wines, so all our Reserves are made with this in mind.”  Reveilo has been going this route ever since they began production in 2006 and Reveilo is flying Italian winemaker’s Andrea Valentinuzzi (SDU Winery)’s first Indian collaboration.  Patil has been directly barrel-fermenting his wine – there is no time in steel tanks as convention dictates. This gives the advantage of time saved but also exposes it to the vagaries of ambient temperature, something fairly tricky for a less-skilled winemaker maker to handle especially with white wines.  Patil is quite clear that he is not a “me too” wine producer, and that his wines speak of their very own terroir and Reveilo’s winemaking style.

    Tasting notes: This one speaks of oak, but with subtlety and restraint. Apple and pear on the nose and soft and buttery on the palate but not overly so. Nice balance.

    Where and how much: Rs 1395 (€18)  in Mumbai and Pune only.

     Second pick: Reveilo Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016. Their flagship Reserve Cabernet is in also-ran position only because it is still fairly young and not yet come of age. A rich, full-flavoured red wine with notes of pepper and spice. Buy and stash in your wine cellar (or at least a cool, dark place), as this one should improve as it ages. If opening anytime soon, decant before serving, Patil advises.

    Where and how much: Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Rs 1495 (€20) available in Mumbai and Pune in Maharashtra.

    The Daily Dose 2016

    India is making some very nice Cabernet Sauvignons and this particular small-lot wine from Sholapur, made by well-known importer Vishal Kadakia of Wine Park with experienced oenologist Rajesh Rasal is a good example. A funky label design, a funkier name and improving vintages every year puts this wine squarely on my list. The market-savvy Kadakia has chosen to make it fruit-forward by reducing the oak interaction to just 5% to appeal to the young, hip and eager-to-dabble demographic among wine drinkers. The cherry on the viniferous cake: Kadakia says the grapes are made from organically grown, pesticide-free grapes. That works for me. Plus, extra dibs for having the most off-beat label and name.

    Look out soon for The Daily Dose white, a Sauvignon Blanc aimed to fit much the same profile.

    Tasting notes: Concentrated ripe, red fruit with hints of spice and a vibrant finish,  good structure with firm, noticeable tannins. Benefits from some decanting or aerating, being such a young ‘un.

    Where and how much: Rs750 (€10) in Maharashtra, Rs 850 (€11) in Karnataka.

    Fratelli Sette 2013

    Fratelli’s Italian winemaker Piero Masi has some serious international winemaking chops to his name, and based on that alone it would be worth picking up a bottle of their Sette, their flagship Reserve red made from a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes grown in their vineyards in Akluj, Maharashtra, using the best grapes of each vintage. The Sette, changing its composition as required, is well-established on most top-10 wine lists. Pick one of for your wine cellar. Or gift a friend who enjoys the bold and the beautiful.

    Footnote: Sette 2013 is available in 375ml and magnum (1.5 litres) as well. The bigger size would make a great statement gift or to pop for a special occasion. It comes with its own plug-in aerator too! Elegant labeling in dark chocolate and gold.

    Tasting notes: Later vintages of Sette (the first was 2009) saw the Sangiovese dominate the Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, where earlier it was the other way around. This seems to be working. Intense, broody red wine, the dark fruit noticeable on nose and palate but reined in by the oak (14 months in oak, of which 60% new French oak ) which speaks quite definitively. An age-worthy wine, but if you want to drink it now, decant for a while. Jancis Robinson scored it at 16.5/20.

    Where and how much: Rs 1700 (€22) in Bangalore, Rs 1800 (€23) in Delhi and Rs 2000 (€26) in Mumbai.

    Grover Zampa Chêne Grand Reserve 2015

    The big strong boy of the Grover Zampa Vineyards portfolio and most beloved of many wine aficionados for its distinct oak, majestic structure, and chewy tannins. An oak-rich full-bodied blend of 55% Tempranillo (think Spain) and 45% Syrah, it is an apt food wine for that big barbecue you were planning.

     Tasting notes: Rich, ripe red fruit on the nose and palate with hints of pepper and coffee, the structure and lengthy finish all adding to create a sumptuous red wine. A perfect buy for lovers of oaky red wines. Jancis Robinson has called it a ‘proper wine!’ (exclamation mark hers!) and irrespective of Ms. Robinson’s intended meaning, this wine certainly meets all necessary concerns of propriety.

    Where and how much: Rs 1950 (€25)  in Mumbai, Rs 1850 in Bangalore and Delhi (€24).

    Second pick: Grover Zampa Vijay Amritraj Reserve Collection Red 2015

    Winemaker Karishma Grover’s own favourite from the extensive GZV portfolio (she would know, wouldn’t she?) and one that has been improving steadily since its launch three years ago. This elegant, silky blend of Cabernet, Syrah and a hint of Viognier currently makes for a delicious, fruit-rich sip.

    Available in retail for Rs1400 (€18) in Delhi, Rs1495 (€19) in Mumbai and Rs1450 (€19) in Bangalore.

    So there you have it. My own recommendations of the popular Indian red wines on my list- and I wouldn’t neglect those whites too. After all, if winter comes, can spring (or summer) be far behind?

    Disclaimer: All the wines on the lists are my own personal picks, not present here by any other means, such as paid promotions and such-like. They have been assessed either in open tasting sessions or picked up in retail at full-price.

    Enjoy!

     

     

     

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    Tastings  / Wine in India

    All I want for Christmas is some red, red wine… Part 1
    December 20, 2017

    If all you want for Christmas (or New Year, or your birthday or Valentine’s Day, you name it ) is a good bottle of wine, preferably Indian, here are a few reccos for you.

    People often ask me: would you suggest a really nice wine to drink?

    Now that’s a little bit like asking someone, what food I should eat? Because the answer usually is, “Drink/eat what you really enjoy.” Each person’s taste is different, and one man’s red might well be another woman’s sparkling. Oh well. What I mean is that it is okay to like what you honestly like, never mind what the pundits tell you is good.

    But a little guidance to navigate through our ever-brimming wine shelves never hurt anyone. And since I’ve tasted some really good ’uns recently, I thought I’d pass a few of those on to you, so you can buy for your New Year’s party. (Or just gift for Christmas. Much better than plum cake, I’d say.)

    Let’s start with Indian red wine.

    With international and domestic awards and some recognition happening, you don’t need the media to tell you that Indian wine, generally speaking, is on an upward trajectory, quality-wise. There are plenty of very well-made Indian wines, especially red wines, which aren’t getting sufficient time in the limelight.

    Here are a few Indian red wines I’ve tasted recently, and a few reasons why you might want to check them out.

    KRSMA Sangiovese 2016

    KRSMA Estates, that small but quality-rich boutique wine producer based out of Hampi Hills, has been producing limited quantities of wines which have been receiving critical acclaim in India and internationally ever since their launch in 2014. They have two red wines: their flagship Cabernet Sauvignon and a Sangiovese, and two whites, a Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay, plus their second wine, the K2.

    While most people rave about their Cabernet Sauvignon for good reason, I’m going to pick their ‘other’ red – the Sangiovese just this time. This Italian grape is growing very nicely in Indian climes, thank you. KRSMA’s Sangiovese vintages have been small so far, but of very good quality and every bottle has been swept off the shelves before you can say ‘Salute’. Even though it is not the cheapest buy on the shelf, if you can get your hands on one, you have a very pleasant surprise in store.

    Tasting notes:

    Fermented in French oak, the wine has a good structure, an aromatic nose with red berries and a hint of spice. Very food friendly.

    Where and how much: Available in Bangalore. Rs 1800 (€24)

    Second pick: I always love their fairly majestic Cabernet Sauvignon and have tasted every vintage thus far. The KRSMA Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 has just been released and with 15 months in French oak, promises to be a big strong wine as it matures and grows. If you’re a Cabernet fan, buy and stash for a while. Your patience will be rewarded. be aware, stocks tend to run out soon.

    Rs 2000 (€26) in Bangalore,  Rs 2640 (€35)  in Hyderabad.

     SDU Winemaker’s Selection 2014

    This is the only vintage of the SDU Winery‘s Winemaker’s Selection made to date. I’ve recently blogged about this one (read here), that it had developed nicely and was drinking at its peak. There are only a few hundred bottles left out of the original 999 made, sold only from the winery and not available in retail stores. A luscious but elegantly balanced blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, it’s a perfect example of what the winemaker, Andrea Valentinuzzi calls a ‘meditation’ wine. (Translation – don’t use for your party sangria). Great bang for your buck wine. Again, one you would be lucky to get your hands on. Elegant boxed packaging, great for gifting to that wine connoisseur friend you want to impress.

    Tasting notes: Ruby red and very rich, this is a delicious wine, not made for casual aperitif quaffing.  Sip a glass post-prandial as you contemplate life’s meanings or pour it to drink with that perfect rack of barbecued lamb. The tannins are silky and well-integrated. The winemaker refers to it as “the nectar of his dreams” and if you want to see if he is right, you better be quick before stocks disappear.

    Where and how much: Available in Bangalore ex-winery on request (see details here) Rs1500 (€20)

    Second pick: The SDU portfolio has several goodies at the upper end, but I really like the SDU Riserva Chardonnay 2013. It is also drinking very well right now, very creamy and satisfying, especially with a shellfish meal.

    York Arros 2016

    York wines are made a young team at their Nashik-based York winery. Arros is their flagship red wine and is quickly growing in popularity. So much so that winemaker Kailash Gurnani tells me he’s scaling up production – up to 13,000 bottles for this vintage. Arros is made in years when the fruit is considered worthy (there’s no 2014), and the blend is tweaked each time. This vintage is dominated by 41% Shiraz, 59% Cabernet Sauvignon and is fermented in both French and American oak barrels – 61% French oak, 39% American oak. This is because, explains Gurnani, “Our climate doesn’t produce the level of fruit to take on 100% French oak. American oak elevates the fruit (flavours) and gives it more life in the short term.” However, the Arros is good for ageing too, he says. Buy to drink right away or keep for a later date.

    Tasting notes:  Bright red and some black fruit, accentuated with hints of vanilla from the American oak, and a long finish. Food friendly, young and raring to go. Based on the winemaker’s recco, this is a vintage worth catching, as it is the best one yet.

    Where and how much: Rs 1200 (€15) in Maharashtra, Rs 1000 (€13) in Delhi.

    The list of my best Indian red wines continues in Part 2 soon to be posted here.
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    Tastings  / Wine in India

    20/3235: India wins some at the Decanter Asia Wine Awards 2017
    September 21, 2017

    The results are out for the Decanter Asia Wine Awards (DAWA) 2017 recently held in Hong Kong, and there are several interesting points to note – among them the positive showing by several Indian wine producers who scooped up several medals and commendations

     

     3235 wines from around the world were judged at DAWA 2017

    Judged by over 50 qualified judges

    15 wines received the topmost accolade – Platinum Best in show.

    China wins 69 medals plus commendations

    India wins 6 silver, 12 bronze medals, plus commendations

    Stellar showing in the medals tally by China, Argentina and Australia, as well as New Zealand and France.

     

     

    India’s shows its ‘metal’

    The Indian wine industry has been participating in several international wine competitions for a while now. And while it is not fair to compare the fledgling wine industry in India with bigger, older and more regulated ones around the world, things seem to be looking up overall.

    Silver medals for India included two for Grover Zampa Vineyards, for La Réserve 2015 (91 points), its popular red wine blend, and Vijay Amritraj Reserve Collection 2016, a 100% Viognier (90 points). This, along with 8 bronze medals, making it the biggest winner from India. (My recent blog post on GZV award-winning spree, here.)

    Fratelli Wines based in Solapur, Maharashtra, also picked up two silvers, for their MS Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc 2015 (92 points) , a collaboration between international wine veterans Masi and Spurrier, and the Vitae barrel-fermented Chardonnay 2015 (92 points), along with 3 bronzes. KRSMA Estates situated in Hampi Hills and known for its small but strong portfolio, won two, a silver and a bronze each for its KRSMA Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (90 points) and Sauvignon Blanc 2017 respectively. Somanda Vineyards of Nashik, Maharashtra, won a silver for its Soma Brut Cuvée 2015, a 100% Chenin Blanc (90 points). Interestingly, 3 Indian rosés received high scores at the awards – two still and one sparkling  – in a country where rosés have still to reach wider acceptance.

    Judged the best

    Sonal Holland MW, who became India’s first Master of Wine last year, was one of the new additions at DAWA 2017 to a jury comprised of several heavyweights from the world of wine. She explained why Decanter, as a wine competition, garners so much respect: it is considered “a benchmark for wine competitions” because of the systems it adheres to. “The quality of the judges was world class and they were meticulously selected. The judging was based purely on merit in the context of the specific flights of wines being tasted. Every wine was discussed in detail, with the Vice Chair presided over discussions to ensure nothing was overlooked for the final outcome. No Indian jury member was permitted to judge any of the Indian wines.” It was a sterling exercise, one made more so by the fact that there were 3235 wines entered in the competition, and each had to be tasted. Heading the list of judges as the Chair, DAWA 2017 was Steven Spurrier, while other big name international judges at the competition included Gerard Basset MW MS OBE and Andrew Jefford, both of whom have earned themselves widespread respect in the international wine circles.

    China won 69 medals and many more Commendations, bringing to the fore the usual old India-China comparisons. But we should move beyond that, said Holland. “It wouldn’t be fair to compare the results from India with China. Every country has great wines, mediocre wines and wines not really fit to exist. It is heartening to know that all the Indian wineries which have won here were deserving ones. We should celebrate our success. It’s great to think good work is being done in India, and we should rejoice in the wins.”

    French-qualified sommelier, author and educator Magandeep Singh of Wi-Not Beverage Solutions has been a judge at the prestigious Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) held in London, besides several other noted wine competitions like the IWC. He approves the “pragmatic approach” to judging that is taken at these competitions, including DAWA. “There is a rich talent pool of judges and an opportunity to learn in these competitions, especially in London which is the epicentre of wine. And if any Indian wine producers win a medal, they are entitled to place a sticker from Decanter on their medal-winning bottle, which can help a layperson decide if the wine is worth buying when they see it on the shelf.”

    Is this a game changer when it comes to selling and marketing Indian wine? Not so much at this point, he feels. “But for Indian producers, there is nothing to lose.” (more…)

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    News & Views  / Wine in India