best Indian red wines

    India Wine Awards 2018: Masters of Wine in the mix
    August 21, 2018

    Four Masters of Wine are set to judge the new Excellence in Restaurant Wine programme for the first time, at the of the India Wine Awards 2018. One of them, Richard Hemming MW tells us what to expect…

    Sonal Holland MW is a woman on a mission: a mission to put a glass of wine in every discerning Indian drinker’s hand. And in the process, to educate, to encourage and get the good word about wine in India out there.

    It’s not an easy project.

    Often during our chats, Holland has referred to what she sees as major tasks ahead of her. India has several advantages: a country with a wine culture in its infancy but growing steadily, a developing wine industry intent on forging ahead, and a vast number of wine newbies eager to learn more about wine. Then there are downsides to this picture – high taxation and a preference for spirits being some of them. However, in the final analysis, everyone agrees there is enormous scope for the growth of wine in India.

    Last year, the maiden edition of the India Wine Awards saw many Indian producers rewarded, importers applauded and good wine appreciated – Indian wines as well as wines imported into India. There was euphoria all around for a job well begun.

    But that was only the first step.

    Richard Hemming MW will judge the India Wine Awards Excellence in Restaurant Wine programmes section this year

    So this year, for the Indian Wine Awards  be held in September 2018, Holland decided to up the ante with an additional section; the Excellence in Restaurant Wine Programmes has been instituted to recognize and reward all those food and drink establishments which promote the cause of wine in the three metro cities, Mumbai, Delhi-NCR and Bengaluru. This section will crown restaurants whose wine lists offer interesting selections, are cuisine-appropriate and appeal to a wide range of wine consumers. It will also recognize restaurants with good practices such as well-trained, competent wine staff or sommeliers and which have hosted wine events that promote a positive culture in its markets.

    “With so many food awards in the country, we thought it was time to put the focus on wine and recognise F&B establishments for their positive efforts in promoting the wine culture in their respective markets,” says Holland, “Consumers’ interest in enjoying a good glass of wine along with their meals at restaurants is increasingly ever so rapidly, and we believe that the India Wine Awards Excellence in Restaurant Wine Programmes will serve as a wake-up call for restaurateurs to understand how important their wine lists could and should be.”

    Absolutely.

    To add truckloads of credibility to the task at hand, she roped in four MWs from around the globe to form the independent panel for judging this award section, even as she recused herself: Richard Hemming MW (UK), Tan Ying Hsien MW (Singapore), Andrea Pritzker MW (Australia) and Victoria Burt MW (UK). All from countries with very developed wine cultures and boasting of restaurants and bars with exciting wine lists. This would be a first: Indian restaurant wine lists would be judged as per international standards.

    As I wanted to understand their approach to this, I asked Holland to connect me with one of the judges ahead of the judging. She did, with Richard Hemming MW.

    Hemming, who became a Master of Wine in 2015, is a familiar name for subscribers of JancisRobinson.com, a website he has been writing for, for over 10 years. Among a slew of achievements, he has been a judge at the Decanter World Wine Awards for several years and has also won the prestigious Louis Roederer Online Communicator Of The Year award in 2017. He writes on wine with flair and more than a dash of humour. Some of his most fun wine writings come under a column engagingly entitled Hemming’s Spittoon (https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/wine-eggs-and-the-tyranny-of-choice).

    Read on.

    Hemming believes  that “reducing the intimidation that wine can evoke” is critical to a developing wine culture like India’s

    What, to you, epitomizes a really good wine list? Size is not the only factor, I’m sure.

    In fact, larger sizes can often be a negative. The biggest wine list in the world (in Macau) has 16,800 wines – far too many to choose from! Instead, it is better to have something that represents a careful selection from all the main regions and styles of wine around the world, as well as some more esoteric selections. Ideally, you should get a sense of the personality of the sommelier or wine buyer from the selection, and the way it is presented. A great wine list might only have 50 wines – or even fewer.

    In a country where the wine culture is still fairly new for the general public, yet there are more than a few connoisseurs to cater to, as well as international visitors, what thoughts should a restaurant keep in mind when it puts together its wine list? 

    It’s important to pick the right brands – those which have a recognition factor for less well-informed consumers, but which are well respected by connoisseurs. This isn’t always easy, but it is definitely possible. Also, providing the right level of information is crucial – accessible, useful and concise information in plain English with minimal jargon.

    If you had to pinpoint a single factor (or a few) which might help drive the popularity of wine in India, what would that be? What, to your mind, might be its unique challenges? (more…)

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    Interviews  / News & Views

    The KRSMA Manifest 2018: Sip of things to come
    April 17, 2018

    Just four years after its ritzy launch, India’s KRSMA Estates is busy re-doing, re-thinking and re-vamping its portfolio. The single constant factor is a laser-focus insistence on quality.
    A quick check in with the Chigurupatis spells out the changes and the constants.

     

    KRSMA wins Best Indian Winery at the Living Foodz Epicurean Guild Awards 2018

    At the recently held Living Foodz Epicurean Guild Awards 2018 in Mumbai, the award for Best Indian Winery was given to the Hampi Hills-based KRSMA Estates by a 22-member jury.

    This is not the first time that KRSMA has won an award and it is unlikely to be the last. In the four years since its launch, it has quickly established itself as a quality-focused owner-driven Indian wine producer who pretty much marches to its own drumbeats, steering clear of crowd-pleasing decision-making. And its wines, currently available in just two Indian cities fly rapidly off the shelves.  Regular grumbles among wine lovers about the difficulty in accessing stocks has given it something of a cult following. Whenever I travel to other parts of India, wine-loving folk often ask me KRSMA-related questions. What’s up? What’s new?

    When I recently met up with both the owners at a KRSMA wine dinner at Bengaluru’s new dining hot spot, The Smoke Co, it was a rare opportunity. Krishna Chigurupati keeps busy with his ‘day job’ at his pharmaceutical company and his wife Uma her own commitments (though they continue to remain firmly hands-on with their wines) so it’s a rarity these days to catch them both together over a KRSMA-paired meal. Ergo, it was the perfect moment to get a first-hand update on the ‘what’s up’ and ‘what’s new’ questions.

    Uma and Krishna Prasad Chigurupati

    Seated next to Krishna Chigurupati at the dinner, I asked him about the latest from the Hampi Hills. Here’s an update.

     

    KRSMA Estates Cabernet Sauvignon

    After the release of KRSMA Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, the 2012 vintage was released and sold out in a jiffy, establishing KRSMA as one of the top wine brands in India. However, Krishna Chigurupati deemed the 2013 vintage not good enough to be bottled as their flagship Cabernet. Things improved with the 2014 vintage, which if you can get your hands on a bottle, is presently drinking at its peak. 2015, the current vintage in the market is still growing into its elder sibling’s boots but promises to reward the patience of those willing to wait a few more months. “Stocks of the 2015 will last until early 2019,” Chigurupati tells me. “Our Cabernet is improving year on year. Wait for the 2016.  And I think the 2017 will be very good.”

    Updated reports on the Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 from the KRSMA winery says to expect good things and more from the 2016 vintage –  a wine that will be fruit forward (red fruit and dark berries) with good structure from the oak (currently a little harsh as expected but will settle) and all the complexity you can expect from one of India’s top red wine brands. Promise of excellent acidity and balance.

    And as for the Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, it has reportedly been harvested at the perfect time, is showing promise of perfect fruit and acidity and is developing rapidly. Should be a biggie. (more…)

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    News & Views  / Wine in India

    ‘Tis the season for some red, red wine (and white) Part 2
    December 24, 2017

    Seek and ye shall find… Several of the best Indian wines (many red and some white!)  which may be found on our retail shelves. In Part 2 of my post on my favourites, here are some more wines to sip, store or gift.  If bought from a good retailer, stored and served in optimal conditions, these will be rewarding to drink.
     Reveilo Chardonnay Reserve 2016

    Reveilo’s Yatin Patil knows his desi consumer. “Indians enjoy fruity wines, so all our Reserves are made with this in mind.”  Reveilo has been going this route ever since they began production in 2006 and Reveilo is flying Italian winemaker’s Andrea Valentinuzzi (SDU Winery)’s first Indian collaboration.  Patil has been directly barrel-fermenting his wine – there is no time in steel tanks as convention dictates. This gives the advantage of time saved but also exposes it to the vagaries of ambient temperature, something fairly tricky for a less-skilled winemaker maker to handle especially with white wines.  Patil is quite clear that he is not a “me too” wine producer, and that his wines speak of their very own terroir and Reveilo’s winemaking style.

    Tasting notes: This one speaks of oak, but with subtlety and restraint. Apple and pear on the nose and soft and buttery on the palate but not overly so. Nice balance.

    Where and how much: Rs 1395 (€18)  in Mumbai and Pune only.

     Second pick: Reveilo Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016. Their flagship Reserve Cabernet is in also-ran position only because it is still fairly young and not yet come of age. A rich, full-flavoured red wine with notes of pepper and spice. Buy and stash in your wine cellar (or at least a cool, dark place), as this one should improve as it ages. If opening anytime soon, decant before serving, Patil advises.

    Where and how much: Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Rs 1495 (€20) available in Mumbai and Pune in Maharashtra.

    The Daily Dose 2016

    India is making some very nice Cabernet Sauvignons and this particular small-lot wine from Sholapur, made by well-known importer Vishal Kadakia of Wine Park with experienced oenologist Rajesh Rasal is a good example. A funky label design, a funkier name and improving vintages every year puts this wine squarely on my list. The market-savvy Kadakia has chosen to make it fruit-forward by reducing the oak interaction to just 5% to appeal to the young, hip and eager-to-dabble demographic among wine drinkers. The cherry on the viniferous cake: Kadakia says the grapes are made from organically grown, pesticide-free grapes. That works for me. Plus, extra dibs for having the most off-beat label and name.

    Look out soon for The Daily Dose white, a Sauvignon Blanc aimed to fit much the same profile.

    Tasting notes: Concentrated ripe, red fruit with hints of spice and a vibrant finish,  good structure with firm, noticeable tannins. Benefits from some decanting or aerating, being such a young ‘un.

    Where and how much: Rs750 (€10) in Maharashtra, Rs 850 (€11) in Karnataka.

    Fratelli Sette 2013

    Fratelli’s Italian winemaker Piero Masi has some serious international winemaking chops to his name, and based on that alone it would be worth picking up a bottle of their Sette, their flagship Reserve red made from a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes grown in their vineyards in Akluj, Maharashtra, using the best grapes of each vintage. The Sette, changing its composition as required, is well-established on most top-10 wine lists. Pick one of for your wine cellar. Or gift a friend who enjoys the bold and the beautiful.

    Footnote: Sette 2013 is available in 375ml and magnum (1.5 litres) as well. The bigger size would make a great statement gift or to pop for a special occasion. It comes with its own plug-in aerator too! Elegant labeling in dark chocolate and gold.

    Tasting notes: Later vintages of Sette (the first was 2009) saw the Sangiovese dominate the Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, where earlier it was the other way around. This seems to be working. Intense, broody red wine, the dark fruit noticeable on nose and palate but reined in by the oak (14 months in oak, of which 60% new French oak ) which speaks quite definitively. An age-worthy wine, but if you want to drink it now, decant for a while. Jancis Robinson scored it at 16.5/20.

    Where and how much: Rs 1700 (€22) in Bangalore, Rs 1800 (€23) in Delhi and Rs 2000 (€26) in Mumbai.

    Grover Zampa Chêne Grand Reserve 2015

    The big strong boy of the Grover Zampa Vineyards portfolio and most beloved of many wine aficionados for its distinct oak, majestic structure, and chewy tannins. An oak-rich full-bodied blend of 55% Tempranillo (think Spain) and 45% Syrah, it is an apt food wine for that big barbecue you were planning.

     Tasting notes: Rich, ripe red fruit on the nose and palate with hints of pepper and coffee, the structure and lengthy finish all adding to create a sumptuous red wine. A perfect buy for lovers of oaky red wines. Jancis Robinson has called it a ‘proper wine!’ (exclamation mark hers!) and irrespective of Ms. Robinson’s intended meaning, this wine certainly meets all necessary concerns of propriety.

    Where and how much: Rs 1950 (€25)  in Mumbai, Rs 1850 in Bangalore and Delhi (€24).

    Second pick: Grover Zampa Vijay Amritraj Reserve Collection Red 2015

    Winemaker Karishma Grover’s own favourite from the extensive GZV portfolio (she would know, wouldn’t she?) and one that has been improving steadily since its launch three years ago. This elegant, silky blend of Cabernet, Syrah and a hint of Viognier currently makes for a delicious, fruit-rich sip.

    Available in retail for Rs1400 (€18) in Delhi, Rs1495 (€19) in Mumbai and Rs1450 (€19) in Bangalore.

    So there you have it. My own recommendations of the popular Indian red wines on my list- and I wouldn’t neglect those whites too. After all, if winter comes, can spring (or summer) be far behind?

    Disclaimer: All the wines on the lists are my own personal picks, not present here by any other means, such as paid promotions and such-like. They have been assessed either in open tasting sessions or picked up in retail at full-price.

    Enjoy!

     

     

     

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    Tastings  / Wine in India

    All I want for Christmas is some red, red wine… Part 1
    December 20, 2017

    If all you want for Christmas (or New Year, or your birthday or Valentine’s Day, you name it ) is a good bottle of wine, preferably Indian, here are a few reccos for you.

    People often ask me: would you suggest a really nice wine to drink?

    Now that’s a little bit like asking someone, what food I should eat? Because the answer usually is, “Drink/eat what you really enjoy.” Each person’s taste is different, and one man’s red might well be another woman’s sparkling. Oh well. What I mean is that it is okay to like what you honestly like, never mind what the pundits tell you is good.

    But a little guidance to navigate through our ever-brimming wine shelves never hurt anyone. And since I’ve tasted some really good ’uns recently, I thought I’d pass a few of those on to you, so you can buy for your New Year’s party. (Or just gift for Christmas. Much better than plum cake, I’d say.)

    Let’s start with Indian red wine.

    With international and domestic awards and some recognition happening, you don’t need the media to tell you that Indian wine, generally speaking, is on an upward trajectory, quality-wise. There are plenty of very well-made Indian wines, especially red wines, which aren’t getting sufficient time in the limelight.

    Here are a few Indian red wines I’ve tasted recently, and a few reasons why you might want to check them out.

    KRSMA Sangiovese 2016

    KRSMA Estates, that small but quality-rich boutique wine producer based out of Hampi Hills, has been producing limited quantities of wines which have been receiving critical acclaim in India and internationally ever since their launch in 2014. They have two red wines: their flagship Cabernet Sauvignon and a Sangiovese, and two whites, a Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay, plus their second wine, the K2.

    While most people rave about their Cabernet Sauvignon for good reason, I’m going to pick their ‘other’ red – the Sangiovese just this time. This Italian grape is growing very nicely in Indian climes, thank you. KRSMA’s Sangiovese vintages have been small so far, but of very good quality and every bottle has been swept off the shelves before you can say ‘Salute’. Even though it is not the cheapest buy on the shelf, if you can get your hands on one, you have a very pleasant surprise in store.

    Tasting notes:

    Fermented in French oak, the wine has a good structure, an aromatic nose with red berries and a hint of spice. Very food friendly.

    Where and how much: Available in Bangalore. Rs 1800 (€24)

    Second pick: I always love their fairly majestic Cabernet Sauvignon and have tasted every vintage thus far. The KRSMA Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 has just been released and with 15 months in French oak, promises to be a big strong wine as it matures and grows. If you’re a Cabernet fan, buy and stash for a while. Your patience will be rewarded. be aware, stocks tend to run out soon.

    Rs 2000 (€26) in Bangalore,  Rs 2640 (€35)  in Hyderabad.

     SDU Winemaker’s Selection 2014

    This is the only vintage of the SDU Winery‘s Winemaker’s Selection made to date. I’ve recently blogged about this one (read here), that it had developed nicely and was drinking at its peak. There are only a few hundred bottles left out of the original 999 made, sold only from the winery and not available in retail stores. A luscious but elegantly balanced blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, it’s a perfect example of what the winemaker, Andrea Valentinuzzi calls a ‘meditation’ wine. (Translation – don’t use for your party sangria). Great bang for your buck wine. Again, one you would be lucky to get your hands on. Elegant boxed packaging, great for gifting to that wine connoisseur friend you want to impress.

    Tasting notes: Ruby red and very rich, this is a delicious wine, not made for casual aperitif quaffing.  Sip a glass post-prandial as you contemplate life’s meanings or pour it to drink with that perfect rack of barbecued lamb. The tannins are silky and well-integrated. The winemaker refers to it as “the nectar of his dreams” and if you want to see if he is right, you better be quick before stocks disappear.

    Where and how much: Available in Bangalore ex-winery on request (see details here) Rs1500 (€20)

    Second pick: The SDU portfolio has several goodies at the upper end, but I really like the SDU Riserva Chardonnay 2013. It is also drinking very well right now, very creamy and satisfying, especially with a shellfish meal.

    York Arros 2016

    York wines are made a young team at their Nashik-based York winery. Arros is their flagship red wine and is quickly growing in popularity. So much so that winemaker Kailash Gurnani tells me he’s scaling up production – up to 13,000 bottles for this vintage. Arros is made in years when the fruit is considered worthy (there’s no 2014), and the blend is tweaked each time. This vintage is dominated by 41% Shiraz, 59% Cabernet Sauvignon and is fermented in both French and American oak barrels – 61% French oak, 39% American oak. This is because, explains Gurnani, “Our climate doesn’t produce the level of fruit to take on 100% French oak. American oak elevates the fruit (flavours) and gives it more life in the short term.” However, the Arros is good for ageing too, he says. Buy to drink right away or keep for a later date.

    Tasting notes:  Bright red and some black fruit, accentuated with hints of vanilla from the American oak, and a long finish. Food friendly, young and raring to go. Based on the winemaker’s recco, this is a vintage worth catching, as it is the best one yet.

    Where and how much: Rs 1200 (€15) in Maharashtra, Rs 1000 (€13) in Delhi.

    The list of my best Indian red wines continues in Part 2 soon to be posted here.
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    Tastings  / Wine in India

    Grover #25 Part 2:  Karishma – making wine in India
    November 29, 2017

    Two things had a major impact on the Grover story – the merger with Maharashtra-based wine producer Vallée de Vin in 2012 made it India’s second biggest wine producer. Shortly before that came the entry of young Karishma Grover as assistant winemaker, qualified in viticulture and oenology from UC Davis and fresh from working in the Napa Valley. She brought along with her new ideas and a new commitment to making quality wine in India. Today, Grover Zampa Vineyards is notching up new achievements and marking new milestones
    Wine in India

    Karishma Grover with Vijay Amritraj at the VA Reserve Collection launch

    I’m intrigued by young people who decide to go into their family business; it is getting rare these days. But Karishma Grover is no typical young person and winemaking is no common family business.

    ‘A switch flipped somewhere inside…’

    During our chat at the winery I ask her about her debut into the wine world. “I’m fortunate that wine was my family business,” she replies. It was far from an automatic choice, however. A science student at JB Petit school, Mumbai, she describes herself as the odd one out among the super-focused science nerds – a self-described ‘back bencher.’ “In India, half the science students typically go into medicine, the other half engineering. But neither was for me. I just couldn’t wrap my head around physics. So I was kind of spitballing, when my mother said why not try your hand at winemaking?”

    Karishma agreed to give it a try though she was still far from convinced. Then came her aha moment. Famous flying winemaker Michel Rolland, who was consulting with Grovers came to town on one of his visits and her father Kapil agreed to let her tag along with them. “I was about 15 or 16 at the time, and Dad scared me by saying ‘be quiet, behave, no whining’, and so on.” But those five days turned into a life-changing experience for the young girl. “A switch flipped somewhere inside and I was riveted. For me, the biggest thing with Michel was that he treated me like an adult and a professional. He would take the time to answer every question I asked, whether in the vineyards or about winemaking. There was a good amount of learning and plenty of respect. I quickly fell in love with wine – the lifestyle, the wine pairing with food. In five days what was until then a ‘maybe’ career became my whole life.”

    Mind made up, it seemed natural for Karishma to move on to study viticulture and winemaking at the University of California Davis in the United States. “What struck me right away was the difference in teaching styles between the US and India. Here, you’re rarely encouraged to challenge your professors; there’s little or no dialogue. In the US, our professors were from the top of their fields – from microbiology to viticulture – but they were so open, so interested in conversation and debate, so ready to have their ideas challenged. It was brilliant.”

    This openness has defined her management style, she says. “It’s now integral to who I now am. I like positive attitudes, especially since I entered the industry so young. There was always something to learn, to open your mind up further.” She also fosters it in turn in her team. “Each one is invested in their work, and that, in turn, helps improve end quality.” She encourages lateral thinking and believes competition is healthy.

    Karishma offline
    wine in India

    Karishma Grover in the GZV cellars

    What does Karishma do when she is not making wine?

    “My biggest passion is television. I’m obsessed with reality shows like the Real Housewives. They are addictive. I spend an hour or two a week catching up on my TV shows, in pop culture, movies, reading. I read a few blogs on my days off (I don’t work on weekends unless it is during harvest). I love good food so I’m always trying out new restaurants. I’m an indiscriminate foodie – I’m happy to eat anything, even MSG-heavy ‘Indian’ Chinese. My sister is much more health conscious than I am. I also do a travel blog with my 15-year-old cousin. We love to explore stuff; I’m not driven by doing any greater good here.”

    Holidays and short getaways are also must-dos. “I’m very particular about my holidays now. For the first four years of working, I didn’t take a vacation. Now I take three weeks off every two years and weekend breaks in between. When I travel, I don’t go to wine regions – I stay away from anything that’s related to work. Work can get stressful at times and a break is good.”

    Decoding the Indian wine consumer

    In 2008 Karishma joined GZV as a winemaker and over time, she has gradually become more involved in the GZV management, especially in the product development space. “Recently I decided to make the move from Bangalore (where the original Grover winery is) to Mumbai (where the GZV head office is located post their merger with Vallée de Vin). “I did it gradually, it wasn’t an overnight move. I’m also taking on more responsibility in stages. I believe in tossing ideas around and listening to responses.”

    As we moved through the tasting, what struck me was the freshness and quality of the wines before us, some were several vintages old. Karishma agreed that wines taste best where they are made, stored in optimal conditions. “They don’t suffer travel shock, they are always stored well.”

    Best wine brands

    In the cellars

    I’m always interested in what wine producers think of their consumers. Do they cater to their needs and tweak their wines to fit popular tastes? Or do they hold fast to their own ideas and beliefs? There’s been very little research done on the Indian wine consumer, which makes him/her a fascinating subject of discussion whenever I meet someone from the wine industry. “The Indian consumer is very interesting. I don’t think we really know enough about him or her,” says Karishma. She recently visited Jaipur and Chandigarh and the trips were a revelation to her. “We are used to consumers in Delhi, Mumbai and other metro cities who are relatively mature wine drinkers. What I discovered and found interesting was the various stages of interest in wine – or lack of – as well as opinions and widely-held beliefs. For instance, there is still largely an assumption that wine is a woman’s drink. I don’t agree at all.

    “There are no absolutes. What I do know is that today’s young people don’t want to drink what their parents drank. They want to travel a different path. There’s also a growing awareness of health benefits (though a bit slower in India than in Europe), but still there. People increasingly want to know who is picking their grapes, growing their coffee and vegetables. People have different reasons for eating or drinking what they do. You cannot generalize anymore.”

    Even in India, with wine drinking growing at a far higher rate than in Europe, wine lovers come in different avatars. “Some are brand loyal, others are looking for a niche product, or something unusual.”

    The process of dissecting the consumer and understanding target audiences for wine is just beginning. And it is going to be an exciting ride.

    The Grover anniversary winery tasting
    Expensive wineGrover Art Collection Sauvignon Blanc 2017

    Fresher than the daisies in the vineyard, the bottle (the painting on the label is by noted Indian artist Rini Dhumal) is the only Indian wine to date to have won the highest accolade – the International trophy for the Best in Show International Trophy at Decanter Asia Wine Awards 2014, underlining GZV’s top spot in the wine industry in India. (see article here) A refreshing wine with fresh citrus fruit on the nose, it has a neat acidity and a lengthy finish. A great value buy and one of their most popular labels.

    La Réserve Blanc 2016

    Delicate fruit – pineapple and notes of stone fruit, overlaid with distinct hints of oak. This one is 90% Viognier, 10% Sauvignon Blanc, of which 40% is oak-aged for three months, half in new barrels and half in one-year-old barrels then aged some more on lees. There’s a brightness at the finish from the Sauvignon Blanc. An Indian wine which will hold its own with food, especially seafood.

    Vijay Amritraj Reserve Collection white 2015
    Expensive wine

    The VA Reserve Collection white, a 100% Viognier

    An elegant 100% Viognier and one of Karishma’s personal favourites, it is 40% barrel-fermented in new oak. Redolent with aromas of apricot and peaches with traces of vanilla from the oak. A very nice balance and finish.

    “When you drink it, it explodes in your mouth,” says Karishma, “It takes over your senses. I’m often asked why we make two Viogniers. The La Réserve Blanc is easier to drink. I believe that with the VA white, you need good food to show it at its best.”

    Both the VA Collection wines have changed and improved since they were launched, I believe.

     

    The Grover Art Collection Rosé 2017

    Raspberry cotton candy hues in a glass. Rosé wines have not really got their due, and that is unfair. This one is light-bodied and fresh, perfect for that long summer’s day. A 100% Syrah. And my favourite woman-centric Art Collection label by Rekha Rodwittya.

    Then came a short vertical tasting – one that held interest for me personally.

    La Réserve red 2011 and La Réserve red 2015

    Then came a short vertical – one that held great interest for me personally – would this popular red wine have aged well? Not too many Indian wines have crossed this particular Rubicon well so far.

    Expensive wineThe 2011 had. This sealed the deal for me that La Réserve, an 80-20 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah was back where it once belonged. The 2011, now a good six-years old, was softer on the palate than its younger sibling, the tannins mellowed and smoothed, the red fruit still noticeable but receding into more complex aromas. A delight and a surprise.

    The 2015 was still intense and concentrated, and opened and developed in the glass as the minutes ticked by and we revisited it. It will be interesting to track as it ages. (A La Réserve fan? Track down a bottle of this vintage and stash away for a while). Both had the same essential flavour profile, the same amount of oak-ageing. Time had done the rest. “It’s too iconic to change,” said Karishma.

    Vijay Amritraj Reserve Collection red 2015

    A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Syrah and 3% Viognier, it is aged for one year in French oak. Spicier and more complex than its predecessor, the tannins are also chewier. “The flavours are more concentrated than the La Réserve,” points out Karishma.”In the last couple of years, my love for the VA collection has intensified.”

    Insignia 2015

    The first vintage of Karishma’s ‘experiment’, this vintage is now sold out. Unsurprising, as only 300 magnums were made of this 100% single vineyard Syrah, considered India’s most expensive wine when launched. (If you are interested, the latest vintage to be released shortly has 600 bottles, and you might have a better chance at booking a bottle.) It is sold only ex-winery, not commercially. “Single varietal. Double sorting first. Whole cluster sorting, then berry sorting. Finally, oak fermented on skins in French oak barrels. Then bottled and bottle-aged,” she says. This is complex, well-restrained. Interestingly, Karishma, despite her own Napa geneology, has steered away from making a big oak-dominant Napa-style bomb here.

    “This is a winemaker-driven wine. We don’t follow specific rules or schedules here and if there is vintage variation, so be it. We let the wine tell us when it is ready.”

    Prices of Grover wines for Delhi, Mumbai and Bangalore:

    VA Reserve Collection red and white: Rs 1400/1495/1450

    La Réserve Red and Blanc: Rs 1050/1000/1050

    Art Collection Sauvignon Blanc: Rs 750/675/765

    Art Collection rosé: Rs750/675/640

    Tours to the vineyards, both in Nandi Valley, Karnataka and Nashik, Maharashtra, may be booked online at http://www.groverzampa.in/visit-us/


    Watch the video of my chat with Karishma Grover on her vision for GZV and her thoughts on the way ahead for the Indian wine industry.

     

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    Interviews  / Tastings  / Wine in India  / Winery Visits