For the first time, Indian sommeliers got the opportunity to test their skills in an international-level sommelier competition, The Best Sommelier of India 2025, by the all-new Sommelier Association of India. A behind-the-scenes look at what happened
It was January of a new year. The lobby of The Lalit, a 5-star hotel in suburban Mumbai was busy. Tourists were checking in. Businessmen sat, laptops before them, frowning at their screens. But the gaggle of young men, smartly turned out in suits, and lapels adorned with pins of various hues, were oblivious to the noise around them as they huddled together. They were discussing, in hushed tones, ways to tackle an all-important hour that lay ahead of them.
Maybe the most important hour of their lives.
The group of men (sadly, no women participated this year) were young sommeliers from various parts of the world – Singapore, Italy, Mauritius, New Zealand, Dubai. What they had in common was the fact that they were Indian. The hour in question was for the semi-finals of the mint-new Best Sommelier of India competition, run by the Sommeliers Association of India (SAI) in association with the world body, Association de la Sommelerie International (ASI).
Testing for excellence
This was an event of major significance for Amrita Singh DipWSET and Mattia Antonio Cianca DipWSET, co-founders of SAI along with Salvatore Castano. While they were busy setting the stage for the imminent Best Sommelier of India competition, they were aware that this edition would set the benchmark for SAI in India, affiliated as it was with ASI, the name behind the highly-coveted and profoundly difficult Best Sommelier of the World title.
SAI had been in existence for a short 11 months since it had been unanimously voted in as a member of ASI’s College of Applicants. It had notched just over 100 members and was growing quickly. The founders had ambitious plans to grow the wine community in India. But the timing of the competition held its challenges. Would India, with its small but passionate sommelier community, be ready to enter the world stage? The Best Sommelier of Asia and the Pacific competition, leading to the grand finale of the Best Sommelier of the World, was slated for September 2025, with the triannual Best Sommelier of the World just over a year away. So, holding the Best Sommelier of India competition early in 2025 was important. If not, it would mean another four years until the next opportunity for SAI to enter a candidate from India. The question of assessing national standards in sommelerie had become an urgent one.
Plenty of passion, less opportunity
It is no secret that while talent and passion abound in India’s small wine community, infrastructure, costs, and opportunities are often out of the reach of young sommeliers. This does not stop them, though. Many, with an eye on long-term, international achievements, push themselves hard, often taking jobs outside the country to upskill and earn better, doubling up a full-time job with intense study.
India’s wine story itself is not without challenges. High taxes, a federal system of excise, and a large populace of which only a tiny percentage are wine drinkers meant that India still qualifies as a growing wine destination. It had started producing wine only about 40 years ago. The move towards premiumization and quality wine consumption had risen gradually post-pandemic. Still, hotels and restaurants were reluctant to hire sommeliers given the relatively small proportion of wine-drinking guests. Moreover, the global dip in wine consumption seemed to have echoed in India in the last year, affecting its hitherto steady growth.
But the fact that wine is a passion, not merely a job, was reflected in the enthusiastic response the competition drew. Fourteen Indian sommeliers, based all around the world, showed up to participate in the quarter-finals.
Competition of international standards
Mattia, who was handling the practicalities of the competition found himself surprisingly relaxed before the start. He had finalised every scheduled task for the competition ahead of time and created extra banks of questions. “This competition had to be treated not as a national-level competition, but an international-level one. The structure had to be similar to that of the Best Sommelier of the World. As I worked on putting it together, I would ask myself, is this question too easy, is this acceptable?”
Salvatore Castano, crowned Best Sommelier of Europe and Africa in 2021, and Mattia were both veterans of several international competitions, having competed on the world stage previously. So, they knew the level the tasks had to be pitched at. “My advice to the sommeliers is to manage their stress levels, this being their first time on a big stage,” said Mattia.
Out of the 14 quarter-finalists, only five were India-based. At the welcome dinner on the eve of the competition, the mood was one of excited anticipation.
On the morning of the quarter-finals, the contestants arrived at The Lalit bright and early. Many of them had taken leave from work to fly in to India, and there was a palpable sense of excitement in the air. No one knew what to expect, only that there would be a blind-tasting component, a theory section, and a practical test for service.
Being the first competition of its kind to be held in India, there was little to benchmark against – but things became clear soon enough. “I knew that ASI standards were tough, but this was an eye-opener,” said Pankaj Singh, 29, assistant head sommelier at Dubai’s Arts Club. Many of the participants found themselves wrong-footed by the theory questions – 46 of them to be answered in an hour, and requiring a substantial depth and breadth of wine knowledge. But there was a sense of determination despite the awareness that the next couple of days would be challenging.
“ASI tests you not just on wine but other beverages like tea, coffee, spirits, beer, sake – and we were not sufficiently prepared for that,” one of them told me. “Then came two wines we tasted blind, and had to provide full organoleptic profiles, along with suggested food pairings.”
Savio Cardoza, 35, head sommelier at Atlantis, The Royal in Dubai, was not expecting an easy ride, having attempted his Advanced Sommelier exam with the Court of Master Sommeliers twice earlier. “But as I worked in the industry, I was more confident about the theory and service segments.” Tasting was likely to be challenging, he felt, but he hoped to reach the semi-finals.
Pankaj Singh was equally nervous. In 2019, while watching Marc Almert win ASI’s Best Sommelier of the World, he had wondered why there wasn’t a single Indian participant on the stage. Now had come the prospect of being in the Best Sommelier of India competition, and it was exciting. “It was enough for me just to be present on stage this time!”
Amber Deshmukh, 35, business development manager with leading Indian importer Monika Alcobev, firmly believed that study was the key to success. While chatting with me over Zoom, he pointed to his wine study soft board in his Mumbai flat. It was filled with neatly lined up post-its and colourful maps of every wine region imaginable. Therefore theory, for him, was less of a concern than the service and blind-tasting components. “Being in wine retail, I have not worked on the floor for years now, while the other contestants are well-versed with service – I do not expect to reach the finals.”
Sommelier Jai Singh, on the cusp of starting a new job at a Michelin-star restaurant in Naples, Italy, had studied and worked abroad for several years. “But I awoke one morning with a sense of emptiness. I was so busy studying that I realized I had left my country, my people, behind.” The wine industry in India did not offer sufficient opportunities – so he felt he had little choice but to leave. This was to be a golden opportunity for him to reconnect with his home country and his family.
Shiva Chaurasiya, 24, junior sommelier at 67 Pall Mall Singapore, had left home and family at age 22 to move to Singapore when he did not get the kind of jobs he sought in India. Now working for the upscale wine club 67 Pall Mall Singapore, he looked to assess where he stood, knowledge-wise, with his eye on the CMS Advanced Sommelier exam in a year. “I was scared initially,” he confessed, “But I thought I should give it a shot, although I knew ASI standards are likely to be high. But I believe you never lose, you only learn.”
The road to the finals
While Pankaj Singh was excited to participate, he was hoping for an easier run for the theory segment. But it was not so, with the added pressure of strict time restrictions. But he made it through to the semis, to his surprise, coasting through service and the blind tasting.
Shiva learned a lot from the quarter-finals. “The judges expected a lot from a candidate – knowledge about tea, coffee, beer – more than only wine – and importantly, how to be a good sommelier. You must be hungry to learn, always.” He was aware that employers today look for sommeliers who can multitask – handle tastings, make cocktails, tea, or coffee – and share that knowledge with the guests. Pankaj Singh agreed, “You have to be an all-rounder to make it through.”
Salvatore Castano, part of the conceptualizing team setting up the exam format, was impressed with the competence levels displayed by the participating Indian sommeliers in the quarter-finals. “They showed great promise, demonstrating passion, dedication, and a solid foundation of knowledge.”
And then there were five
The five semi-finalists were announced.
Jai Singh, Shiva Chaurasiya, Savio Cardoza, Amber Deshmukh, and Pankaj Singh made it to the semis. This would be held on the morning of the finals. The finals themselves were slated for the evening, before a 200-strong live audience. Only three candidates would make it to the finals, to showcase their skills to the judges and the audience on a stage set up on the lawns of The Lalit. The suspense would continue until the three finalists would be announced.
To his consternation, Jai Singh found the semi-final theory section tough – “Perhaps the toughest I have ever done – to answer 16 open response questions in 15 minutes. For instance – in which years was Chateau d’Yquem not produced? This was followed by the blind tasting of two wines, the filling of a blank wine region map (the grand cru lieux-dits of Chablis), and serving a sparkling wine to the judges within three minutes.” However, he enjoyed the blind-tasting segment. “I felt I did well.”
Pankaj was more relaxed by now – “I had nothing to lose. I enjoyed the tasting, and felt sure I would go through.” Amber revealed that while the theory section had helped bolster his confidence, “I did not expect to get to the finals. In a way, that settled any nervousness I might have felt.” He too, had little to lose.
The semis finished at 12.30, and the five somms were asked to have lunch and assemble for the live announcement of the finalists on stage that evening.
That evening, standing under the spotlight before the judges, doubts assailed them afresh. Pankaj, confessed he had lost hope…. until he heard his name called at last. He joined Amber Deshmukh and Jai Singh on stage. The three had made it to the finals.
The finale
The finalists drew lots to settle the order of testing. Pankaj was the first one on stage. “I was nervous being called up first,” he confessed, “And unsure how many tasks there would be. My lack of confidence affected me – especially as the wind blew out the candle during decanting, and I forgot to announce the change of vintage of the wine during service. I could have done better.”
Jai Singh, who came next, also adopted a nothing-to-lose strategy, which helped bolster his confidence. “I had participated mainly to earn a place in the ASI Bootcamp (to provide the winning ASI sommeliers from around the world with a high quality, intensive three days of masterclasses, workshops, and tastings – Ed) which I had already done by earning a place in the finals. This helped give me confidence. As I walked towards the stage, I thought I must do what I do every day. So, win or fail, nothing will change.”
For Amber, it was a chance to take learning to the next level. “The competition is about wines but goes far beyond it. The rest is about other beverages – tea, coffee, water, spirits, even cigars. So, while wine is very important, this competition tests you at many different levels.”
The three finalists went through their tasks – timed decanting of a red wine, identifying teas by their profiles, checking a wine list for errors, spelling, and factual, and a blind tasting of wines and spirits, followed by food pairings. This was followed by a slide presentation of top wine personalities and top estates – they were asked to identify each of them. Finally, all three were given a magnum each of sparkling wine that they had to pour freehand into 15 glasses within a time limit – a tricky but vital task for any sommelier. Despite a few inevitable slip-ups, they acquitted themselves well.
After a tense wait, the judges announced the winners.
To much fanfare and applause, Jai Singh was crowned the first ever Best Sommelier of India. In second place came Pankaj Singh, Amber Deshmukh had placed third.
In a burst of emotion, Jai Singh dropped to his knees in gratitude. In the audience, his siblings, who had travelled all the way from Lucknow to Mumbai just to see him on stage, rose to their feet to join the thunderous applause. Later they told me, beaming, “We always knew he was different, special. He always wanted to walk his own path. We are so proud of him, and what he’s achieved.”
For Amrita Singh, the finale brought a sense of relief at a job well done, and a vital step taken in the growth of India’s hospitality culture. “We were especially excited to have Saiko Tamura-Soga, ASI Vice-President for Asia & Pacific, and Nina Basset FIH, co-founding trustee, Gérard Basset Foundation, as part of the judging panel,” she said.
What the participants displayed in abundance over the two days of intense competition was great potential and promise, said Mattia. Agreed Salvatore, “Their strengths lay in their enthusiasm and eagerness to learn, which are crucial qualities in this profession.”
Emotions run free
Amber felt both disappointment and happiness at placing third. “I was flooded with messages from my friends from India and around the world. I realised that this was just the beginning, in a way. I must work hard now; I cannot let this go to my head or develop an attitude.”
For Pankaj, “the feeling was indescribable – it will stay with me forever.” When he had boarded his flight to India, he had mentally prepared for nothing more than a nostalgic trip home. Now, it had become something much more. “It is my dream to represent my country. Win or lose, it’s the learning that’s important.”
Shiva admitted feeling sad at not making it to the finals. “It would have been the first time for me on such a big stage, with international judges that you do not get the opportunity to interact with every day. It also meant I missed the chance to attend the ASI Bootcamp – only the top three get to go and learn from the best sommeliers in the world.” But it was a fight worth fighting. “I will be back on the stage again – better and stronger.”
Amber points out that competing on an international stage immediately puts you at a different level. “I have learned so much. Today I can make cocktails, understand spirits, and handle blind tastings. I would say failure is my biggest teacher, and the biggest motivator to do better than ever.”
Looking ahead
Jai Singh will make history by being the first ever Indian sommelier at the ASI Best Sommelier of Asia & Pacific contest in Kuala Lumpur in September 2025 and the ASI Best Sommelier of the World competition in Lisbon, Portugal in October 2026. “I believe that the environment and people around me played important roles in what I do and their love and support in different phases of my life helped me to grow and inspire.”
Saiko Tamura-Soga, who had flown down to India for the competition and also acted as a judge, marvelled that the inaugural Best Sommelier of India competition had been so successfully organized to world-class standards. She was impressed by the exceptional talent, dedication, and humility demonstrated by the Indian sommeliers who participated. “The founders of the fledgling organisation, SAI, demonstrated a sense of unity and energy under the able guidance of its co-founders, especially president Amrita Singh,” she said.
Salvatore had words of advice for all the participants and for those hoping to participate next time. “Want to reach world standards? Refine your tasting techniques, improve service finesse, and gain broader exposure to global wine styles and cultures.”
Mattia was both surprised and happy at the showing of the sommeliers, many of whom were on a big stage for the first time. He offered a few words of advice: “It is normal to forget details, normal not to be able to complete tasks on time – it happens even at the Best Sommelier of the World competition! What the champions know so well are the basics – because they practice to the point of perfection. So, when crunch time comes, there is no pressure whatsoever.” The ability to turn theoretical knowledge into easy delivery is key, he adds. “Champions can switch their brain from study mode into competition mode very easily. That is where they pick up points. And points lead to victory.”
The Indian wine industry: support needed
This is just one milestone for India’s wine fraternity, felt Jai Singh. “We need to learn and grow together, make the community in India bigger, better for the next generation.” That means mentorship and support, pointed out Pankaj Singh, “I would like to help more somms make it to the world stage.” Savio Cardoza agreed. “It took me 10 years to get here… I can pass on my knowledge much sooner. Mentorship is the need of the hour.” Amber is quick to acknowledge the role that mentors have played in his life, from pioneers in the Indian wine industry to his CMS mentors. Support and networking are the keys to success, he concurs.
That the competition brought immense growth opportunities, was the unanimous response from the participants. Mattia pointed out, “The chance to meet fellow sommeliers, learn from them, hear their stories, can be invaluable. Friendships within the community are priceless too, leading to many networking opportunities.”
Salvatore agreed. “My advice to the sommelier community is to stay curious, keep tasting, and embrace continuous learning.”
Venue partner: The Lalit, Mumbai
The 14 quarter-finalists: Karan Patyal; Vaibhav Jawale; Akul Anand; Rohan Dole; Nigel Vaz;; Shiva Chaurasiya; Tarun Acharya; Pankaj Singh; Amber Deshmukh; Rajan Singh; Jai Singh; Atharva Joshi; Savio Cardoza; Abhishek Batabyal.
The Judges: Saiko Tamura Soga; Nina Basset FIH; Sonal Holland MW; Henri Chapon MS; Cyril Thevenet; Salvatore Castano
Special Guest Judges:
Rajiv Singhal; Ritu Singhal ; Charles Donnadieu; Subhash Arora; Reva Singh; Ruma Singh.
