News & Views

‘We change the syllabus to reflect the growing market in wine and spirits’
October 31, 2019

What is new with the WSET, the largest wine and spirits school in the world? A major syllabus re-jig and new courses to cater to the rapidly-changing world of alcoholic beverages, says CEO of the WSET, Ian Harris who was in Mumbai for the India Wine Awards a while ago. And yes, India is growing as an education hub…

In its 50th year, the WSET (the Wine & Spirit Education Trust) has released data that states that in 2018-19 a total of 108,557 candidates took a WSET qualification, breaking the 100,000 barrier for the first time.

Here are some more facts:

In its newest syllabus change (from August 2019), the WSET now has 3 separate subject streams – wine, spirits and sake. Spirits, originally clubbed together with wine, now has its own syllabus and qualifications, and is topping the numbers chart with +33% over last year.

So who are these students of wine, spirits and sake? Besides  professionals working in the international beverage industry, a slew of interested enthusiasts are also signing up to take courses with the WSET, the global organization which provides wine and spirits education in the world.

In India, despite tough taxes, the interest in wine and spirits is steadily growing against all odds, with APPs (approved providers) offering Levels 1, 2 and 3 of the WSET qualifications. The numbers have been sufficiently interesting to bring Ian Harris, CEO, WSET to India to partner with Sonal Holland MW in her third edition of the India Wine Awards in a series of pre-event masterclasses.

On the sidelines of the excitement of the India Wine Awards, Harris found time to answer some of my questions.

Read to understand what the WSET is offering in India, and why Harris is so pleased with the growing Indian interest in wine.

 The WSET has been making significant changes in its curriculum, separating spirits from wine, adding saké and much more. Why did you decide to make these changes at this given point in time? And given the rapid changes happening in the world of wine (new regions, new grapes, changing climate) how often do you anticipate changes in the curriculum in future?

  • Ian Harris, CEO of the WSET at the India Wine Awards 2019

We took the decision to split the qualification into three product streams – wine, spirits and sake, mainly because we have a lot of people who did our qualifications who were just interested in wine but had to study spirits, even though this might not have been part of their jobs. And also, people who pursue wine aren’t necessarily spirits consumers. So we took the decision that if we were going to teach spirits properly, we needed to have spirits qualifications at every level. We already had Level 1 and Level 2, but when we split the qualification, we took spirits out of the wine qualifications of Levels 2,3 and 4.

 We have just launched in the first of the Level 3 qualifications in spirits which includes Asian spirits, like Baiju and Shochu because there is a growing group of people who want to learn about spirits of the world, particularly people who work in bars around the world. We took that decision about a year ago.

We look at our qualifications about every 3 to 4 years, and we would change the syllabus if necessary to reflect the global market and the new wines and spirits coming into the industry.

The WSET has announced a record number of enrollments in its courses in the last calendar year. Do you feel the curriculum changes have contributed in any way to the rise in interest in the WSET qualifications?

When we introduced Level 1 qualifications – we introduced the Level 1 in wine in 2003 and Level 1 in spirits in 2009 – that really opened by WSET qualifications to people who may not have been able to afford the higher qualifications or didn’t need the higher level of knowledge for their jobs. So one of the big drivers of our growth – and last year we had over 100,000 students in 12 months – has been the growth of Level 1 qualifications, which are aimed at people just starting out in the industry or people who just need the basic knowledge of either wines or spirits or sake.

If you had to pinpoint several significant trends in the beverage world you feel of importance to students and watchers of the alcoholic beverage industry, what would you say they were?

I think the most important trend in the beverage world is that people are appreciating that if they spend a little bit more (on education), they’ll be able to open up a whole new world of different wines and indeed, different spirits. The significant trend is that people are more willing to try different products, to experiment, and that is helped very much by people who are working in restaurants as sommeliers or behind the bars as bartenders or mixologists. That trend has been helped by the education of these industry people, and indeed the consumer who is going into those bars and
restaurants. The more knowledge they have, the more they are prepared to
experiment.

(more…)
Share
Read More
No Comment

Interviews  / News & Views

India Wine Awards 2019: Indian wines hold their own
October 22, 2019

Quality has its own rewards, and the tweaks made to the India Wine Awards 2019 format  by Sonal Holland MW demonstrated that Indian wines could hold their ground against international competition

The spotlights are off, the music has faded, the chairs are stacked and stashed away. The 3rd edition of the India Wine Awards is done. There has been good media coverage on the event (congratulations to all winners!) and the record numbers of entries (376 including the segment of wines paired with food). As I was wandering notebook in hand, around the Sangiovese vineyards in Italy’s Emilia Romagna region at the time, I was unable to attend the high-octane, glitzy awards night held at The Leela Mumbai on 5th October 2019, although I had sipped and spit my way through two intense days of judging earlier with my fellow jury members.

But I was curious about the post-event learnings and takeaways.

Indian wines on an upward trajectory

  • Sonal Holland MW with Grover Zampa’s Ravi Vishwanathan
  • …and with Fabrizio Giustarini of the Italian Trade Agency & Consul-General Stefania Costanza

There is little doubt that Indian wine is improving steadily. This is clearly visible every year, as more of the top wineries jostle for awards and prizes. However, there is still woefully little awareness of the rising quality of the wines among Indian consumers, who often prefer to pop a bottle from Australia or South Africa than splash out on wine from Nashik or Nandi Hills.

Apropos to this, one of the most interesting changes for me at this year’s awards was IWA founder Sonal Holland MW’s decision to create a common judging category where both Indian and imported international wines were judged on par, separated only by grape or style. For the 2019 edition, 320 wines were entered in the tasting competition, of which Indian wine to international wines was in the encouraging ratio of 50:50. Said Holland, “It gives me great joy to report that throughout the blind tastings, the (Indian) wines held their own. As India’s wine industry matures, and domestic wines go from strength to strength, I’m happy to share we are the first awards in India to recognise that at comparable price-points, well-made examples of Indian wines are on par with international ones for their world-class attributes.” Of the 12 wines adjudged Best in Show, 5 were Indian wine, spread across several producers and styles.

So, good news here.

Imported wines still rule in the Indian market

However, for India’s beleaguered importers, struggling to deal with whimsical and arbitrary policy changes and regulations, the results were also good. Holland explained, “It is the international labels which are growing at a faster clip and are contributing to the depth and understanding of wine and its culture in India.”

More good news, then, all around.

While we bask in the light of these positives, do go through the list of winners below. For more details on the India Wine Awards, please check here.

LIST OF TROPHY WINES AND CATEGORIES INDIA WINE AWARDS 2019

Best in Show

• Champagne G.H.Mumm NV , France

• Grover Zampa Chêne Grand Réserve 2015 , India

• J’NOON Red 2017 , India

• The Source Grenache Rosé 2019 , India

• Trapiche Oak Cask Malbec 2018, Argentina

• KRSMA Syrah 2017, India

• SDU Reserva Syrah 2015 , India

• Bodegas Ego Fuerza, Spain

• Dry Creek Vineyards Heritage Vines Zinfandel, USA

• Paul Jabuolet Aine, Les Traverses, Ventoux AOC, 2016, France

• Framingham Pinot Noir Marlborough, New Zealand

• Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella DOC Superiore 2015, Italy

(more…)
Share
Read More
No Comment

News & Views  / Wine in India

India Wine Awards 2019: Once more with feeling
September 21, 2019

With 320 wines tasted and assessed this year, Sonal Holland MW’s India Wine Awards 2019 is getting set to announce the best wine in India

Fun, games and a whole lot of work.

That, in brief, summed up the third edition of the India Wine Awards (IWA) jury session held in Mumbai on 12th & 13th September 2019 – two days of an exacting tasting schedule punctuated with witty one liners and gags, bonhomie over food and intense debate over wine as the jury raced the clock to judge the 320 wines – Indian and imported – nominated for the awards to identify the best wine in India.

While it was a whirlwind couple of days, Sonal Holland MW, the founder and chairperson of the Awards showed little visible signs of strain – she says her amped up all-women’s team did such a great job behind the scenes that it took the stress of the annual mega-event off her shoulders. “I just had to get my hair done and show up,” she joked.

Joking apart, there was much behind-the-scenes micro-management to get the awards – its task to identify the best wine in India – to this happy place. IWA’s head of operations Apurva Gawande admitted, “There is a lot that goes on at the back end… you can never be sure how it will go until it’s done.” The biggest task once the nominations were in was to get the coding nailed, the hundreds of bottles brown-bagged, their labels meticulously obscured. Then the service staff had to be briefed on serving temperatures, pour sizes and efficient clearance – key to keep the flow going through the day. “There is always madness that goes on behind the scenes, but we can’t give in to any stress.”

In fact, there was an uncharacteristic calm in Holland’s team before the event. The Leela’s EAM Abhisek Basu recalls the flurry of emails exchanged before last year’s event. “This year there were barely any,” he recounts, “In fact, I started getting worried a couple of weeks ahead of the event.” Holland confirms, “We were exceptionally calm, in zen mode. We knew what needed to be done.”

  • The jury, India Wine Awards 2019

Last year, in her briefing to the jury prior to the event she spoke of how she wanted the 2nd edition to be ‘bigger, brighter and shinier’ than the inaugural one. That happened. So, what did she expect for the 3rd edition this year? “I wanted the IWA to be accepted by the (wine) industry, and it has been.” Given the growing buzz about an impending economic slowdown, they thought that crossing last year’s nominations would be tough, but, she says, “we hit the mark.”

Now with Day Two of the 2-day jury session at The Leela Mumbai done, the excitement has subsided much like the pounding rain and frenzied drumbeats which marked the Ganpati visarjan the day before. It is time for Holland to reflect on the events of the last couple of days. After judging the final tasting session of food and wine pairing, we sit down for a coffee and a quick recap.

2019’s 16-member jury had a few familiar faces and several new ones. “I think this year’s jury lineup was the best. We included many more judges from the industry – sommeliers, hotel general managers, restaurateurs – they constitute the most important part of the trade and are a direct link to consumers. So it was a strong jury with discerning palates.”

We discuss the single biggest change Holland has instituted in the judging process: the tasting of Indian and international wines together in the same flights. This time, flights were defined solely by grape variety or blend, and the judges tasted and assessed the wines blind without knowing whether the wines were Indian or imported. Why this modification? I asked.

(more…)
Share
Read More
No Comment

News & Views  / Wine in India

Wine in India: hope floats, taxes weigh heavy
August 19, 2019

India’s wine industry is a young one, compared to Old World countries who have been making wine for centuries. Despite cultural issues, high taxation, and innumerable functional issues, the interest in wine in India is growing. If the forces were correctly aligned, there would be a remarkable surge, say reports

For years, when it comes to talking about the race for development in wine, India’s name has been juxtaposed with China’s. Even though China had surged well ahead, becoming a global powerhouse when it came to buying wine, wooed aggressively by Bordeaux and Burgundy leading the rest of the world.

Whither India? Mired in a stringent tax regime which has consistently confounded importers and producers alike, India, its potential yet untapped, has struggled to get a mention among top Asian wine-drinking countries.

A couple of months ago, while researching my global business exam topic for my WSET Diploma, I came across an interesting paragraph in the report by the IWSR, the global alcohol research organization. In their report, they listed the top 10 developing countries of the world which were the fastest-growing markets for alcohol as predicted for the period 2018-2023. Topping the list, which also included Mexico, Philippines, and Vietnam, was India. The reason quoted was, “A combination of growing legal-drinking-age populations and healthy economies is driving some of this growth, which is expected to continue over the next five years.” (Whisky grew by 10.5% in India, as consumers continue to trade up in the category, IWSR added.)

The writing is on the wall. The changes in consumer behaviour, the trend towards premiumization and rapidly-changing ways of social interaction are impacting the global beverage alcohol industry. India is no exception.

  • Image: Kelsey Knight/Unsplash. Main image: Scott Warman

A couple of days ago, another interesting report popped up in my inbox. Wine Australia  (the Australian government authority that promotes and administers its wine industry) in its market bulletin report, focused on the wine market in BRIC* countries. According to the 2017 World Bank’s report, these economies accounted for more than 41 percent of the world’s population by 2017. (To understand the work Wine Australia does, read this.)

In this post, I shall focus on the India findings from this report (India is referred to as ‘new emerging’, where ‘wine is still a relatively new and unknown beverage but showing potential’ in the report by Wine Intelligence). The report refers back to India’s long history in viticulture, dating back to the Bronze Age’s Indus Valley Civilization, and also the fact that it has the youngest population globally more than 19 million new potential consumers reach legal drinking age annually). That is a huge demographic and explains why, despite those crippling taxes on alcohol, wine, and spirits, producers across the world are so enthusiastic to be present in the Indian market. However, it does not take into consideration the fact that rural consumers are unlikely to get exposed to wine. The growth stems from the urban middle class.

A few additional outtakes from the report, below. Good to bear in mind that it is by Wine Australia, and reflects their POV. However, the comments and the figures on the BRIC countries are interesting (directly quoted below).

  • Current per capita consumption of grape wine (2018) stands at only 200ml – one glass – this figure has doubled since 2010 and needs to be considered in the context of India’s total population of 1.35 billion. With a current ‘share of throat’ of 0.3 percent, wine is increasing in popularity with 73.6 percent consumed on-premise. 
  • Australian imports into India, while dominant in volume terms (35.7 percent of total), currently rank second after France in terms of value. Within the next year, Australian imports are forecast to overtake France, with projections indicating that between 2020 and 2023 the value of Australian wine imports growth, at 36 percent, will outpace French growth (11 percent) more than three-fold. 
  • In 2018, 6 percent of Australian imports (to India, by value) were classified as premium; this figure is forecast by IWSR to decline gradually to 4 percent over the next 5 years. With Italian imports volume expected to grow by 29 per cent between 2020 and 2023, and those from Chile forecast to be up 27 per cent (same period), it is likely that there will be increasing competition in the entry-level segment going forward as concerted efforts are made by other producers to penetrate the Indian market.

Another interesting observation. And though India’s imported wine volume is still very small compared to Russia and Brazil, it is growing at a steady pace. According to Vishal Kadakia of leading importer Wine Park, “The share of imported wine in India has been fluctuating between 350,000 cases to 475,000 cases from 2010 to 2018. However, if you add Indian wines, the same may hold true as they are growing much faster.” This is driven by Indian consumers, especially millennials and Generation Z who, attracted by the improving image of Indian wine and are looking for variety and healthy choices.

  • Wine Australia: India Market Summary 2018
  • Shiraz (and its blends) dominates (Australian) exports to Brazil, Russia and India and the predominant white variety in all three markets is Chardonnay. Of the three markets under consideration, India is the largest and has the narrowest range of Australian wine label claims – just four varieties (and their blends) comprise 95 percent of export value. Sixty-eight percent of Australian exports are red, with Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon joined by Merlot (7 percent). Chardonnay (28 percent) represents twice the share it has in Brazil and Russia.

This references the mega-sized Australian producers (for example, Jacob’s Creek) currently dominating the Indian import market. However, with Australian wine developing cutting-edge technology, and experimenting with grape varieties and techniques with solid support from its own government, Australia is hoping to expand on the current scenario. Kadakia agrees, “33-35% of imported wines sold in India are from Australia.”

  • IWSR forecast that from 2018–2023 the total value of wine consumed in India will increase by 55 percent (in line with volume growth predictions). According to Wine Intelligence’s India Report (2018), 56 percent of India’s wine-drinking population is under the age of 35.

This never-ending quest for cashing in on the preferences and wallets of well-travelled Indian millennials also creates great enthusiasm among international wine producers. I’ve lost count of the numbers of them who have told me they are standing by, waiting for the big ‘boom’ to happen in India à la China. Meanwhile, those with deep insights and deeper pockets continue to brave the red tape, tax, and stress of doing business here. “The wine industry is expected to see a 15% year on year,” says Kadakia. Will it jump further in the next few years? Time will tell.

  • The tariff on wine imports in India is currently at 150 percent.

This is not the whole picture. Add to this state taxes, which drive up price points steeply. This is a sad reality for all enthusiastic Indian wine consumers who continue to pay inflated prices for wines. “If these are reduced, we can see a cascading effect of wines becoming cheaper, more importers and increased wine consumption,” says Kadakia. Given the much-discussed health benefits of drinking wine over hard spirits, this is something to look forward to.

*The term ‘BRIC’ was originally coined in 2001 by Jim O’Neill of Goldman Sachs as an acronym for the four rapidly developing countries of Brazil, Russia, India, and China. These countries, he said, symbolised the shift in global economic power away from the developed G7 economies. (Wine Australia)

Share
Read More
No Comment

News & Views

‘The wine industry in India may be small but it is dynamic’
December 12, 2018

The key to a healthy wine industry in India is easy availability of well-priced wines. High taxes on wine and spirits remain India’s biggest challenge to achieving rapid growth like China, says Jude Mullins, international development director, WSET

 

Jude Mullins, international development director, WSET, in Mumbai during the prowein education campaign

Earlier this year, Prowein, the world’s largest wine trade fair brand made a low-key appearance at a Mumbai-based trade show. In collaboration with the WSET, the world’s best-known authority in the wine and spirits education field, Prowein put together an interesting wine-centric three-day education programme in a specially created 40 seater booth. On all three days, the sessions were sold-out, brimful with wine enthusiasts and trade professionals keenly awaiting every session, whether it be on sparkling winemaking techniques or the suitability of Grenache grapes for Indian soil.

As both an industry watcher and as someone who believes in the positive aspects of formal education, I was intrigued. Was this the beginning (albeit in a small way) of greater interest in wine and spirits education in India? What would international qualifications like those offered by the WSET give to people working in India’s wine and spirits industry? Are there enough jobs out there in India?

At the Prowein Education Campaign run with the WSET, Mumbai September 2018

In an effort to find answers, I interviewed Jude Mullins, Hong Kong-based international development director, WSET, on the sidelines of the event. Mullins had come down to represent the wine school and conduct several sessions and was assessing the possibilities of growth of the WSET within India.

First, let’s get a perspective on the WSET, the best-known wine school in the world.

It is five decades old,  created in 1969 primarily to help the UK wine trade. In these decades, it has grown rapidly and expanded its reach. Today, there are over 700 APPs (approved programme providers) around the world, offering 8 levels of WSET qualifications in 17 languages. That makes it a whopping half-million individuals who have enrolled for a WSET qualification since the beginning. (Data courtesy WSET)

Recently,  the WSET’s biggest success story has been in China. In Mainland China alone, the growth in demand for WSET education in wine and spirits has been 41% year on year. China boasts of 126 WSET course providers in 36 cities today, a few short years after they commenced operations in China in 2006.

Impressive figures, without a doubt.

Picking up from the enthusiastic response to their maiden education campaign in Mumbai, I asked Jude Mullins about WSET qualifications and its role in helping those seeking careers in the wine industry in India; its prospects and potential for growth in India.

(Please see the two-part YouTube video interview below for more details from her.)

The three-day Prowein Education Campaign held in Mumbai was a sold-out success. Can we expect more of the same going ahead, in similar or different formats? 

We were very happy to see the attendance of so many different people attending the Prowein Education Campaign from across the drinks industry sector.  This certainly reflects the desire of trade professional to learn about wines and spirits and the importance placed on knowledge within the industry.   I certainly hope that WSET will be involved in future initiatives with Prowein in India going forward.

 

Jack Lun, associate director, Moet-Hennessy Academy China, during his session on Cognac in Mumbai

Has the Mumbai experience helped WSET and yourself understand better in any way, the profile and requirements of wine and spirits education in India? 

Certainly!

It was a privilege to meet so many different representatives of the Indian drinks industry, many of whom had already completed WSET qualifications, or who were looking to progress their studies.  From our various conversations, the biggest challenge still remains the availability of a wide range of wine (and spirits) samples at reasonable prices.  Access to a broad range of international wines is vital for any professional who is looking to advance their learning and tasting experience.  This situation is not unique to India but is certainly a deterrent for those who want to progress to higher qualification levels with WSET as the high cost of wine also increases the cost of qualification courses.

 

During the panel discussion, we spoke of what Levels 2 & 3 can do to help those looking for careers in wine and spirits. What specific additional routes are you looking at to trigger further interest? 

WSET qualifications develop knowledge and tasting experience in a very systematic way, giving students the opportunity to build upon what they have studied at previous levels as they progress.  I certainly believe that there is great potential within academic institutions in India to incorporate WSET qualifications into their degree programmes.  This would not only benefit those students who are preparing to work within India, but also give those who travel overseas for work an international qualification that is recognised around the world.

 

Karan Vasani of Sula Vineyards during his session on winemaking in India

The China market, for one, has been growing quickly and steadily. What learnings from there can we apply to other Asian markets, especially India? Any anecdotal examples you can share?  

One of the biggest experiences I have from my work in China is the high value placed upon learning about and experiencing wine.  This has also been mirrored by the increasing availability of a wide range of international wines in the market at a wide range of price points.  Whilst initial students were predominantly from the drinks industry (and this remains the case at our higher qualifications) there are increasing numbers of wine lovers studying WSET courses which is really positive for the industry.  Additionally, we have seen a great desire to share knowledge about wine by those of have already completed WSET courses, with many graduates wanting to become educators and offer their courses themselves.

 

Jude Mullins at a training session. (File photo)

The wine industry in India is relatively small. What job opportunities might exist for those who complete their various WSET levels?  

The wine industry in India may be relatively small, but it is certainly dynamic with lots of potential opportunities in a wide range of different fields.  WSET qualifications provide the backbone of product knowledge and tasting experience that can be used across different sectors of the industry giving great flexibility, whether this is as a sommelier in the on-trade, working in distribution or sales, marketing or even education to name just a few opportunities.  There are certainly lots of new opportunities arising in the industry, not least because India’s own wine production is growing in importance, and this will only continue.

 

What do you consider the biggest challenges faced by India today, vis-a-vis wine and spirits education? And ideas on dealing with these?  

As I have mentioned, the availability and high cost of international wines and spirits is one of the biggest challenges and certainly has an impact on education.  Students may be limited in the range of samples they are able to experience, or the cost of samples increases the cost of the course to a level that means it cannot be afforded by many who would benefit from this opportunity.  Is there a solution? – well, in live in Hong Kong, where the government took the bold decision to remove tax and duty on wines in 2008!

Watch both the interview videos, below, for more.

Insights: The WSET and careers in wine – Jude Mullins, Part1

Insights: WSET in Asia and the spirits education boom – Jude Mullins – Part 2:

Details on the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) may be found on https://www.wsetglobal.com, including the list of APPs (Approved Programme Providers) in India.

Share
Read More
No Comment

Interviews  / News & Views

Think pink: Crushing on rosé wines
November 20, 2018

 

Why India + rosé can be a winner. Irrespective of the season.

I know you must be thinking, “Winter is coming. Why post an article on rosé now?” Surely this is the time for the big reds, or even some toasty mulled wine?

It’s just to prove a simple point: rosé wine is not just a summer sip.

Rosé wine, that pretty pink refreshing summer wine is finally getting its moment in the sun, so to speak. Literally so, because summer is the time when people all over the world reach for sunblocks, flip-flops and bottles of rosé. Judging by the stacked shelves in shades of pink in European and US supermarkets and wine stores, rosé (ro-say) is a­ firm favourite and isn’t likely to lose momentum anytime soon.

Worldwide, sales of rosé are going up. And it is not just about summer sales. Rosé wines are now on top restaurant wine lists and being acknowledged as a sommelier’s delight when it comes to tricky pairings (like with Indian food).

Rosé is dry, usually fruit-forward, crisp and delightfully food-friendly, pairing nicely with everything from pizzas to kebabs. But rarely considered a ‘serious’ wine. IT was only in 2016? that Brangelina’s famous Miraval rosé was the first rosé ever to enter the Wine Spectator Top 100 list of wines. And despite its own impeccable credentials, it is likely that the Brangelina name has played a role in its popularity.

Even in Europe and the US, where rosé is finally being glugged by the gallon when the mercury rises, it is because of its refreshing summer sip profile. Vine Pair, in a recent article, called it “popular and ubiquitous, the Gigi Hadid of beverages.” ‘Nuff said.

Celeb love

Celebrities dabbling in winemaking are making a beeline for rosé too. Following closely in Brangelina’s footsteps is Jon Bon Jovi whose pink, delightfully named Diving into Hampton Water is made in collaboration with noted Languedoc wine producer Gerard Bertrand. Music star John Legend’s wine label LVE also recently launched a Côtes de Provence rosé. Once celebrities give their nod, you know pink is serious business. Understandable then, that there are some very highly rated rosés, like the pale salmon pinks from Provence, France (Domaines Ott being a well-known name) or Whispering Angel (now also available in India.) There are also well-made rosés coming out of Austria and Sicily.

Evidently, pink is in fashion (and we are not talking about millennial pink here).

Colour me pink

So how is rosé wine made?

Rosé gets its colour from contact with grape skins, in a process known as maceration or direct pressing – very lightly – which yields a light, pale pink wine. Another popular method is saignée, while in the case of some pinks, (such as in Champagne), the red and white is blended to make rosé.

Also, unlike red wines and a few whites, most rosés are not often oak-aged. This helps keep its fresh fruity easy-drinking profile.

Almost all top Indian wine producers have rosé as part of their portfolio. The Indian rosé is made to be drunk young. So don’t stash your bottle of rosé in the cellar!

50 Grapes of pink: Rosé can be made from a variety of different red wine grapes. Two of the most popular are Syrah (Shiraz) and Grenache. Others include Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Syrah and lots more red varieties.

Food friendly, yet fun: When in doubt about food pairing, go with rosé, say many pros. While a glass of rosé makes an easy-drinking aperitif, it is notably food-friendly too. This is particularly true for tough-to-pair Asian cuisines. Rosés work well because of their very light tannins, neat acidity and fruity freshness. Try rosé with a malai tikka, Murgh Makhani or baingan bharta and see for yourself.

Ticks all the boxes

Why then does it lag in the popularity stakes in India? At the recently concluded ProWein Education Campaign seminar in Mumbai, Karan Vasani, chief winemaker, Sula Vineyards commented how white and rosé wines had yet to attain the popularity of red wines in India. This despite our hot Indian summers, where a glass of crisp rosé would be just the thing for a summer’s day.

Mysterious perhaps, but in India’s nascent wine culture, awareness of the many positives of rosé are not yet widely known. While doctors tout the benefits of drinking a glass of red wine for general heart health no one says go, try a rosé. Maybe they should.

As summers continue to get hotter, one thing is clear. The popularity of rosé is here to stay.

But if you are interested, here are a few still rosé wines available in India worth trying.

 

The Source by Sula Vineyards Rs 975, Mumbai, Bangalore

Fratelli M/S rosé Rs 1000, Bangalore & Mumbai; Rs 1170 Delhi

Grover Zampa Art Collection rosé Rs 735 Mumbai, Rs 640, Bangalore

Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap rosé, South Africa Rs2180

Torres Da Casta rosé, Spain Rs1990

(Verify current prices with your local retailer)

 

 

Share
Read More
No Comment

News & Views  / Tastings

India Wine Awards 2018: The results and what they mean
October 5, 2018

Dear Wine Lover,

Here are some numbers for your consideration.

At the recently held India Wine Awards 2018 Winners’ Night, 184 medals were awarded from 353 entries.

30 Wines picked up the coveted  Best in Class trophy.

In the now closely watched Best Wine Pairings with Indian Food, 120 wines were paired with 9 dishes, as diverse as the dense and rustic litti chokha (Bihar) and the tangy Goa prawn curry (Goa!). While this doesn’t cover the diversity of flavours that India boasts of, it is a good start and will be of interest to wine producers around the world with the eye on importing to India.

India Wine Awards: the trophy

The first time section, the Excellence in Restaurant Wine Programs segment saw 20 restaurants from Mumbai, Delhi and Bengaluru being awarded one- and two-star awards. Will this spur some wine list reworking and more entries vying for the coveted three-stars next time? Hopefully, sooner than later. The uniqueness of this segment was that the decisions were made by four Masters of Wine, based on international standards. Besides these, 8 restaurants got the nod for Wine Destination (giving wine pride of place in their restaurants), and 6 got a pat for Best Wine Trained staff – perhaps this might cause more establishments to invest in their staff by giving them more wine training – formal and informal.

Beyond the numbers, there was plenty to see and understand.

-Indian wine is doing better than ever. This means quality is improving, and that is cause for celebration. In some cases, blind tastings saw Indian wine pip imported wines with higher points.

Despite our crippling taxes and dense regulatory system, importers are increasingly looking to India, and that is more good news for us consumers.

There will be more from the learnings of the India Wine Awards 2018, so watch this space (blog) for more.

The wines listed are available in most metro cities, and please get in touch with apurva@indiawineawards.com or check the India Wine Awards website if you need more information or the complete list of Silver, Gold and Diamond winners.

Here is the list of winners:

Best in Class Wines – Indian

Best Red Indian Wine Grover Zampa Chêne Grand Réserve 2015

Best White Indian Wine Sula Dindori Reserve Viognier 2018

Best Rosé Indian Wine Fratelli MS Rosé 2017

Best Sparkling Indian Wine Grover Zampa Soirée Brut Rosé 2015

Best in Class Wines – International

Best Red Wine – Old World Le Volte dell’ Ornellaia 2015, Italy

Best Red Wine – New World Framingham Pinot Noir 2017, New Zealand

Best White Wine – Old World Joseph Drouhin ‘Drouhin-Vaudon’ Chablis Reserve de Vaudon 2015, France

Best White Wine – New World Susana Balbo CRIOS Torrontés 2017, Argentina

Best Rosé Wine – Old World Chateau d’Esclans Côtes de Provence Whispering Angel Rosé 2017, France

Best Champagne Taittinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie NV, France

Best Sparkling Wine (excluding Champagne) Ferrari Brut NV, Italy

 

Best in Class Wines Indian (based on pricing)

Best Budget Indian Wine – York All Rounder White 2017

Best Mid-Range Indian Wine –   Reveilo Nero D’Avola 2017

Best Premium Indian Wine –  SDU Reserva Syrah 2014

Best Super-Premium Indian Wine –  KRSMA Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Best in Class Wines International (based on pricing)

Best Budget Wine – International Campo Viejo Tempranillo 2017, Spain

Best Mid-Range Wine – International  Zonin Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore DOC, Italy

Best Premium Wine – International Domaine Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Pauillac, France

Best Super-Premium Wine – International Torres Mas La Plana 2012, Spain

Best Super-Premium Wine – International Boscoselvo Brunello di Montalcino 2010, Italy

Best Wines Paired with Indian Cuisine

Best Wine pairing with Mutton Rahra Sula Sparkling Shiraz 2018, India

Best Wine pairing with Chicken Chettinaad Sula Brut Rosé 2018, India

Best Wine pairing with Goan Prawn Curry Besserat de Bellefont Champagne NV, France

Best Wine pairing with Malvani Fish Fry Grover Zampa Soirée Brut 2015, India

Best Wine pairing with Litti Chokha The Source Grenache Rosé 2018, India

Best Wine pairing with Paneer Khurchan Casablanca Rosé Spumante NV, India 

Best Wine pairing with Dal Makhani (tie) Casablanca Frizzano Semi Dry NV, India and Sula Zinfandel 2018, India

Best Wine pairing with Aloo Poshto Yellow Tail Pink Moscato NV, Australia

Best Wine pairing with Gulab Jamun De Bortoli Noble One 2013, Australia

 

EXCELLENCE IN RESTAURANT WINE PROGRAM WINNERS 

WINE LIST AWARD – One star award

Rivers to Oceans, Mumbai

The Table, Mumbai

The Wine Rack, Mumbai

SanQi, Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai

Kebabs and Kurries, ITC Grand Central Mumbai

Romano’s, JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar

Fratelli Fresh, Renaissance Mumbai

Artisan – French Bistro, Sofitel Mumbai BKC

Le Cirque Signature, The Leela Mumbai

Luna, The St. Regis Mumbai

Caprese, Shangri-La Hotel Bengaluru

Le Cirque Signature, The Leela Palace Bengaluru

Le Jardin, The Oberoi Bengaluru

The Wine Company, Gurugram

The Hong Kong Club, Andaz Delhi

Dum Pukht, ITC Maurya New Delhi

Pluck, Hotel Pullman New Delhi Aerocity

Two star award

The Chambers, The Taj Mahal Palace Mumbai

Wasabi by Morimoto, The Taj Mahal Hotel New Delhi

Le Cirque, The Leela Palace New Delhi

WINE DESTINATION AWARD

The Wine Rack, Mumbai

Romano’s, JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar

Le Cirque Signature, The Leela Mumbai

Toscano, Bengaluru

Caprese, Shangri-La Hotel Bengaluru

Le Jardin, The Oberoi Bengaluru

Qla, New Delhi

Le Cirque, The Leela Palace New Delhi

WINE-TRAINED STAFF AWARD

The Table, Mumbai

San: Qi, Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai

Dum Pukht, ITC Maratha Mumbai

Dublin, ITC Windsor Bengaluru

The Wine Company, Gurugram

Honk, Hotel Pullman New Delhi Aerocity

 

 

 

 

Share
Read More
No Comment

News & Views  / Wine in India

The First Families of Wine have the last word: ‘Family is sustainability’
August 31, 2018


Featured post on IndiBlogger, the biggest community of Indian Bloggers

In today’s brave new world, it is said the family as a unit of society is facing erosion, rapidly, and in so many ways. In the wine world, as multi-national conglomerates take over family-run wineries, the writing is on the wall.

Yet this universe has been one where traditionally the family unit has ruled supreme, where generations continue to follow in their ancestors’ footsteps. Today, generations-old producers like Cordoniu or Mondavi have sold their holdings to conglomerates.

One last bastion stands tall.

The wine world’s most blue-blooded family unit, the 25-year old Primum Familiae Vini (Latin for “First Families of Wine”) is making a stand to hold on to values long held dear, to find strength and support among their peers. As fifth generation scion of Champagne Pol Roger, Hubert de Billy takes over as President, PFV for his third tenure, he underlines the necessity of holding on strongly to family values.

The PFV consists of the first families of wine, currently 11 iconic names. Take a look at the list of their members:

Marchesi Antinori, Italy

Château Mouton Rothschild, France

Maison Joseph Drouhin, France

Egon Müller Scharzhof, Germany

Hugel & Fils, France

Pol Roger, France

Famille Perrin (Château de Beaucastel) France

Symington Family, Portugal

Tenuta San Guido (Sassicaia) Italy

Bodegas Torres, Spain

Vega Sicilia, Spain

Hubert de Billy of Champagne Pol Roger is the current president of the PFV, the first families of wine. (Above, main picture) the families of the PFV gather annually, here seen together at the last meeting in Alsace, France 

Soon after he took over as president from Jean-Frederic Hugel of Hugel & Fils of Alsace, France, de Billy made a statement in which he declared his pride at what members of PFV, since its inception 40 years ago, has achieved, “together showing the world that wine is not just a product or even a business,” This, he says, is purely via the singular dimension of family values.

Excerpt from my interview:

Congratulations on your third term as President of the Primum Familiae Vini. For readers who may not be familiar, do explain the philosophy behind this prestigious family-based wine association.

 Primum Familiae Vini was founded by Miguel A.Torres and Robert Drouhin to promote family companies and philosophy and friendship in the wine business; in the long run,  a commitment to quality and respect for human beings. Everyone must respect one another to make a better life as well as a better economy and environment. For that, our companies have to play their roles as citizens. Each family (in PFV) shares with the other member families some technical, economic, commercial experience and knowledge.

‘In unity there is strength’ is an adage. But each of the families in the PFV is an iconic and well-respected name in the world of wine. So how does the group specifically help the other members?

“In unity, there is strength” is not just an adage but a reality at PFV. The new generations who want or need to can work with and learn from the other members (Pol Roger has already welcomed some young members from the Hugel and Torres families; Maximilien – my son – has worked with the Hugel, Symington, Perrin and in a month with the Rothschild families. Some family members of the Hugel family have been working with the Symington family, too). We help each other by organizing not only PR activities together but also by sharing our distribution networks if it suits the others’ commercial policy (in France, Baron Philippe de Rothschild distributes Pol Roger, Familia Torres, Symington Family Estate. In Japan, Famille Perrin, Famille Hugel and Pol Roger all share the same distributor, Jeroboam. In the UK, Pol Roger distributes Joseph Drouhin, and Fells (Symington UK) distributes Familia Torres and Famille Hugel as well)

Please explain the importance of family-run wine companies today, considering today big conglomerates have taken over so many of them, especially in the case of Codorniu recently, and one of your erstwhile members, Robert Mondavi, earlier.

 A family-run wine company is an ideal citizen in every way. Because the families have roots in their appellations both in terms of people and agriculture, everything must be based on a long-term policy knowing that we are working for our future generations…

PFV is present at many of the big trade fairs including Vinexpo and Prowein. How does being represented under the PFV umbrella help in this case, as opposed to individual representation?

The PFV umbrella helps us in that we are stronger together; it is easier to be seen, the visitors save some time (visiting just one stall) and it is also more friendly. It also helps us to show how our products – our wines – complement one another, rather than compete with each other.

Most of your members are European. Would you say that this because the tradition of family-owned companies is strongest in Europe?

Yes, it is true that the way of thinking in Europe and our appellation systems make the tradition of family wine producers very natural. Even if some families go to other regions they have to respect local rules and to be accepted by the locals. It is also easier for everyone in terms of communication.

You have spoken of ‘new challenges’. What do you consider the new challenges facing PFV today?

The new challenges are in term of family ownership, in long-term ecological scenarios and strategies (not based on greenwashing as we see at present times, but based on sustainability for our viticulture, economy, and quality). We believe that PFV reflects the distinctive voice and deep artisan roots of the leading families of wine, with their long history of social solidarity based on mutual support and collaboration.

Family is sustainability.

Wines produced by the PFV family are available in limited numbers in India and are among the best wine brands in India. These are wines by Bodegas Torres, Famille Perrin (Chateau de Beaucastel), Maison Joseph Drouhin, Marchesi Antinori, Tenuta San Guido (Sassicaia), Hugel & Fils, Château Mouton-Rothschild, Champagne Pol Roger.

Check with your local wine retailer for availability and prices.

Share
Read More
No Comment

Interviews  / News & Views

India Wine Awards 2018: Masters of Wine in the mix
August 21, 2018

Four Masters of Wine are set to judge the new Excellence in Restaurant Wine programme for the first time, at the of the India Wine Awards 2018. One of them, Richard Hemming MW tells us what to expect…

Sonal Holland MW is a woman on a mission: a mission to put a glass of wine in every discerning Indian drinker’s hand. And in the process, to educate, to encourage and get the good word about wine in India out there.

It’s not an easy project.

Often during our chats, Holland has referred to what she sees as major tasks ahead of her. India has several advantages: a country with a wine culture in its infancy but growing steadily, a developing wine industry intent on forging ahead, and a vast number of wine newbies eager to learn more about wine. Then there are downsides to this picture – high taxation and a preference for spirits being some of them. However, in the final analysis, everyone agrees there is enormous scope for the growth of wine in India.

Last year, the maiden edition of the India Wine Awards saw many Indian producers rewarded, importers applauded and good wine appreciated – Indian wines as well as wines imported into India. There was euphoria all around for a job well begun.

But that was only the first step.

Richard Hemming MW will judge the India Wine Awards Excellence in Restaurant Wine programmes section this year

So this year, for the Indian Wine Awards  be held in September 2018, Holland decided to up the ante with an additional section; the Excellence in Restaurant Wine Programmes has been instituted to recognize and reward all those food and drink establishments which promote the cause of wine in the three metro cities, Mumbai, Delhi-NCR and Bengaluru. This section will crown restaurants whose wine lists offer interesting selections, are cuisine-appropriate and appeal to a wide range of wine consumers. It will also recognize restaurants with good practices such as well-trained, competent wine staff or sommeliers and which have hosted wine events that promote a positive culture in its markets.

“With so many food awards in the country, we thought it was time to put the focus on wine and recognise F&B establishments for their positive efforts in promoting the wine culture in their respective markets,” says Holland, “Consumers’ interest in enjoying a good glass of wine along with their meals at restaurants is increasingly ever so rapidly, and we believe that the India Wine Awards Excellence in Restaurant Wine Programmes will serve as a wake-up call for restaurateurs to understand how important their wine lists could and should be.”

Absolutely.

To add truckloads of credibility to the task at hand, she roped in four MWs from around the globe to form the independent panel for judging this award section, even as she recused herself: Richard Hemming MW (UK), Tan Ying Hsien MW (Singapore), Andrea Pritzker MW (Australia) and Victoria Burt MW (UK). All from countries with very developed wine cultures and boasting of restaurants and bars with exciting wine lists. This would be a first: Indian restaurant wine lists would be judged as per international standards.

As I wanted to understand their approach to this, I asked Holland to connect me with one of the judges ahead of the judging. She did, with Richard Hemming MW.

Hemming, who became a Master of Wine in 2015, is a familiar name for subscribers of JancisRobinson.com, a website he has been writing for, for over 10 years. Among a slew of achievements, he has been a judge at the Decanter World Wine Awards for several years and has also won the prestigious Louis Roederer Online Communicator Of The Year award in 2017. He writes on wine with flair and more than a dash of humour. Some of his most fun wine writings come under a column engagingly entitled Hemming’s Spittoon (https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/wine-eggs-and-the-tyranny-of-choice).

Read on.

Hemming believes  that “reducing the intimidation that wine can evoke” is critical to a developing wine culture like India’s

What, to you, epitomizes a really good wine list? Size is not the only factor, I’m sure.

In fact, larger sizes can often be a negative. The biggest wine list in the world (in Macau) has 16,800 wines – far too many to choose from! Instead, it is better to have something that represents a careful selection from all the main regions and styles of wine around the world, as well as some more esoteric selections. Ideally, you should get a sense of the personality of the sommelier or wine buyer from the selection, and the way it is presented. A great wine list might only have 50 wines – or even fewer.

In a country where the wine culture is still fairly new for the general public, yet there are more than a few connoisseurs to cater to, as well as international visitors, what thoughts should a restaurant keep in mind when it puts together its wine list? 

It’s important to pick the right brands – those which have a recognition factor for less well-informed consumers, but which are well respected by connoisseurs. This isn’t always easy, but it is definitely possible. Also, providing the right level of information is crucial – accessible, useful and concise information in plain English with minimal jargon.

If you had to pinpoint a single factor (or a few) which might help drive the popularity of wine in India, what would that be? What, to your mind, might be its unique challenges? (more…)

Share
Read More
No Comment

Interviews  / News & Views

Bubbles and beyond: Prosecco’s sparkling success story
August 3, 2018

The world’s top-selling sparkling wine continues to make its presence felt at celebrations everywhere, including India. Here are a few things you should know about Prosecco

“The characteristics of Prosecco are its strengths: its freshness, its direct taste, its floral and fruity nose and taste which are recognizable, its balance between acidity and residual sugar content, its moderate alcoholic content.

While drinking it you do not need to think in-depth to analyse it; it is easy and perfect for everybody. It is versatile, suits the entire meal from aperitif to dessert, and to the art of mixology thanks to the varying residual sugar contents. It pairs well with a lot of dishes, also from international cuisines. Then, this is a wine which offers a good value-for-money.”

These are the words used by Luca Giavi, director, Consorzio Prosecco DOC, the managing body of  Italy’s Prosecco DOC region. He makes his case with ease: but then those who have tasted this sparkling wine know that Prosecco is instantly likeable and its rising sales have proved this fact.

At Vinexpo Hong Kong in May 2018, a standing room only masterclass by Debra Meiburg MW explained the simple joys of drinking Prosecco. Fresh, easy-drinking and affordable, it was the perfect drink for the cola generation transitioning to wine, she said.

When you pick up a glass of sparkling wine at your next soirée, will it be Prosecco or not? If you’re a fan, here a few things to know.

A Prosecco and pizza event during National Prosecco Week in the USA. Images: Consorzio Prosecco DOC.

Prosecco is made in Italy.

… Not in France, the US or anywhere else in the world. To be specific, Prosecco is made in the north-east of Italy, the Glera grapes grown on the picturesque slopes of the Veneto and  Friuli-Venezia Giulia wine regions. Since July 2009, the name ‘Prosecco’ has come under DOC law, which means that wines labelled Prosecco come only from the specific areas of north-eastern Italy.

Wait on. Within the Prosecco region, there is a smaller DOCG region (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, indicates higher quality) between Conegliano and Valdobbiadenne making Prosecco Superiore DOCG.

Giavi explains:

“In 1969 the Prosecco Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOC was established and included 15 municipalities in the area between Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. This area in 2009 was recognised as DOCG. The current Prosecco DOC was established in 2009. The main differences between Prosecco DOC and the DOCG area are the area of production, the yield per hectare, the number of vineyards, the annual production.”

In fact, Italy produces several sparkling wines. Prosecco is the highest selling among them.

National Prosecco Week 2018: A masterclass in progress

World’s largest selling bubby

Prosecco outsells other sparkling wines not only in Italy but also around the world. Reports indicate that in 2014, this Italian sparkling wine proved the most popular in the world with 320 million bottles globally shipped against 307 million bottles of French champagne.

Prosecco has cornered 20% of sparkling wine sales last year and has a major focus on export markets, with the UK, US and Germany accounting for 75% of Prosecco DOC sales in 2016. Of these, the UK leads – 112.7 million bottles of DOC Prosecco were drunk in the UK in 2016.  Predictions for 2020 indicate that Italy will be at 12.66 million, followed by the UK (8.3), the US (4.17) and Germany (3.6).

It is also estimated that by 2020 the worldwide consumption of Prosecco is expected to reach 34-35 million 9 litre crates, despite concerns that the market had topped out. Decanter has recently quoted Gianluca Bisol, president of the premium Prosecco producer Bisol as saying, “Thirty-one years ago, there were just 30 producers and only about 25 million bottles produced. People thought that was the high point of Prosecco and that the UK would never be weaned off Champagne. And look what happened.”
Look, indeed.

I asked Giavi about the possible impact of Brexit on Prosecco. His replied:

“The UK is the first market for Prosecco DOC in general. As regards the Brexit, in the document released by the British Government recently, we definitely think that the right path has been chosen. The document doesn’t answer all the questions, in particular on the protection of the existing Designations of Origin. We are sure some solutions will be found in order not to damage important British productions, like the Scotch whisky.”

The lineup of Prosecco bottles at the Vinexpo Hong Kong  2018 masterclass

Like Champagne? No, Prosecco is different

For one, Prosecco is made with the Glera grape (earlier known as the Prosecco grape), unlike Champagne. Secondly, it is made by the tank or Charmat method (a second fermentation in tanks); champagne is made by the traditional method or méthode champenoise (fermented directly in the bottle). These differences are what gives Prosecco its easy, fresh fruity easy-drinking profile. In the sparkling wine stakes, it is also far more pocket-friendly than Champagne.

Another interesting fact: the fizz in Prosecco is less than that of champagne –  2-4 atm pressure (atmosphere is the unit of measure for pressure inside a bottle of sparkling wine) inside a bottle of Prosecco compared to the 6-7 atm of Champagne.

Unlike vintage Champagne, Prosecco is intended to be drunk young, within a couple of years of production.

So Prosecco = only sparkling, right?

Not so. Just to confound you, here is some information on three different styles of Prosecco. One of them with no bubbles at all!

Prosecco DOC Tranquillo (still – 1% of Prosecco production)
Prosecco DOC Frizzante (Semi-Sparkling – 19%)
Prosecco DOC Spumante (sparkling – 80%)

Spumante is the most popular Prosecco and also comes in: Brut (very dry), extra dry (the most common style, most suitable as an aperitif.) and dry (with a higher sugar content.)

What’s not to love? As Meiburg concluded in her masterclass, “As soon as you put bubbles in someone’s hands, they feel a party has started.”

 

The Prosecco DOC Consortium organised the National Prosecco Week in the US from June 11th to June 16th 2018 with a variety of masterclasses and food events.

Several brands of Prosecco sparkling wine are available in India. Check with your retailer for the best buys and current prices.

For more information, visit https://www.prosecco.wine, the official website of Consorzio Prosecco DOC.

 

 

Share
Read More
No Comment

News & Views