When next in France, take a detour to Épernay, a picturesque town, just over an hour from Paris by train, that is the beating heart of all things champagne. I did, and here are my recommendations
Known as the “Capital of Champagne,” Épernay famously sits atop 110 kilometres of subterranean wine cellars that store over 200 million bottles. The Coteaux, Maisons et Caves de Champagne (hillsides, houses and cellars) were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site on July 4, 2015.
If you are not excited by the idea of floating in a hot air balloon above the city, gazing at vineyards below while sipping a glass of – naturally – champagne, then here are a few things I loved doing in Épernay.
Walk down the Avenue
It might sound touristy, but let’s not forget that Champagne itself is all about grandeur and pageantry. The world-famous Avenue de Champagne is the perfect walk for a champagne lover who wants to pay homage to the grandeur that the region spells. The walk will take you past grand 19th-century Renaissance-style mansions that are home to world-renowned champagne houses like Moët & Chandon, Perrier-Jouët, and Pol Roger. Not all of them are open to visitors, but some are. Check their websites for details of tours, tastings, and, if you can, explore the underground cellars where billions of euros’ worth of champagne lie – the real reason the Avenue is named the most expensive street in the world.
Visit a grower champagne producer‘s cellar and tasting room
If you have wondered what the initials RM on some labels of champagne mean, then wonder no more. They stand for Récoltant-Manipulant, or producers making terroir-driven champagnes from grapes grown entirely from within their estate.
There are 16,000 growers in Champagne, according to Comité Champagne, the official industry body. While a majority of them sell to large champagne houses like Moët & Chandon, a few make their own wines. These wines have increasingly been awarded medals and raves from critics for their unique styles. Many also have their own tasting rooms where you can book a tour and tasting (advance notice advised; do not just show up unannounced.)
I visited Champagne Gaston Révolte, a family-owned RM located in Avenay Val d’Or in the nearby Montagne de Reims, and tasted some of his premium cuvées that created quite a stir when he brought them down for Prowine 2025. While the big houses are grand, growers have their own unique style. Worth visiting both and comparing the two.
Stay at a champagne house
Many champagne producers offer rooms on rent on a bed-and-breakfast basis, and the range stretches from grand and luxurious to simple and rustic. If you are the type of traveller who enjoys being based in a winery, at the heart of the action, this will be a unique experience to try.
I stayed at the family-owned Champagne Guy Charbaut, quaint and rustic but delightful. Also don’t miss the opportunity to experience a table d’hôte (French for “host’s table”), often a multi-course meal served at a fixed price and cooked by the host family. I did that one night during my stay, and met lovely international travellers, visitors to Épernay, around the table, chatting over a five-course homemade dinner paired with champagne.
Tour de Castellane
If views are your thing, you can do a spot of sightseeing while you visit the 66-metre-high Tour (tower) du Champagne de Castellane at the house of Champagne de Castellane, which also possesses rare artefacts and original collections. And of course, finish with a tasting. Book here.
Dine like the Champenois
While the town’s restaurants are not as glamorous as many in Reims, there are some gems to discover. Try a glass of the region’s less known but excellent still wine, Coteaux Champenois, made from the same grapes as the famous sparkling wine, with famous French dishes, including foie gras, fresh oysters, cassoulet. La Grillade Gourmande is arguably the most famous restaurant, (and my favourite) serving gourmet grills and boasting a substantial wine list. Don’t miss the giant jars of corks collected to keep tabs of the number of bottles sold at the restaurant every month. There are several others, most small and chef-run, so make a reservation before you go.
For more information on visiting Épernay, visit the official site https://www.epernay-tourisme.com/en/
I visited Épernay at my own cost, and this article is not a paid promotion.
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