Sip & celebrate: international wines to buy this season
In this two-part article, I share a few international wines I have tasted in India and think worth trying. In Part 2, I will cover my top-value wines and fortified wines. Part 3 will be top Indian picks.
Everyone has a list of favourite wines – the ones you order when you have a party, or pop for a dear friend or open for a very special occasion.
As do I.
As it gets closer to the end of another year, and people are back to celebrating, I thought it might be a good time to list a few of the most interesting international wines I have tasted in India in the last year or so. From trending styles to big-name classics and special-worth-the-spends, here is a list for wine lovers to try. Disclaimer: I have left out the Big Boys – the top Bordeaux classed growths, the Barolos, Brunellos, etc as they need little introduction.
This list covers a range of styles, regions, and price points from pleasing quaffs to cult classics and some interesting discoveries. I could not cover it all – the preferences of wine drinkers are as diverse and specific as the number of wines available. But here goes.
(Prices mentioned are indicative and ex-Maharashtra or Karnataka. Please do check with your local wine retailer for availability, vintages, and pricing)
Unusual Premium beauties
These wines may not as yet be on your main list of go-to buys, but they should be.
Lebanese icon: Château Musar 2015
This Lebanese wine (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, and Cinsault) is on every sommelier’s wish list for a reason – it attained legendary status thanks to its larger-than-life producer Serge Hochar and its survival in the face of chaos and destruction during the civil war. It has a very specific taste profile (and fan following) but to me, that is the magic of Musar. Available in India from Rs11,430 for the rouge, there is also a red and white jeune (young) version (Rs 4780) available.
Sicilian reds and whites: Tornatore Etna Rosso 2018 and Etna Bianco 2021
Nerello Mascalese, a native Sicilian grape, is every sommelier’s current hot pick; A grape that thrives on the dark volcanic soils of the still-live Mount Etna, this wine offers fresh red fruit flavours, a zingy freshness along with notes of spice and tobacco with medium fine-grained tannins. Try the Tornatore Etna Rosso and Bianco (made from native white grapes Carricante and Catarratto) from Rs 3995, both available in Maharashtra and Karnataka. And if you want to splash out, the single vineyard (contrada) wines are available too, for a price.
Provence pinks: Mirabeau, Whispering Angel, Château Miraval, Routas and Aix
There’s a reason why Provence rosés are so much in demand. They are beautiful to look at and deliciously refreshing to drink. With India quickly picking up on the rosé boom, here is a bouquet of Provence rosés worth trying…
Château Miraval needs no introduction to most, being the first rosé to hit Wine Spectator’s annual Top 100 wines list – and being associated with superstars Brad Pitt and ex-wife Angelina Jolie. Whispering Angel is the beautiful pink by master creator Sacha Lichene, who is credited with elevating rosé wines from simple poolside quaffs to the toast of the Côte d’Azur. Whispering Angel from Château d’Esclans, just one among his noted portfolio of gorgeous pinks, is often named the world’s most beautiful rosé. But the award-winning Mirabeau, made by an English couple who made Provence their home, has its own legions of fans as does Château Routas. The multi-award-winning Aix (Rs3895) delivers typical delicate Provence rosé flavours.
Provence rosés are not the cheapest rosés in the market but make for the perfect party conversation starters, besides pairing well with a wide range of Indian food.
Blanc de Blancs champagne: Michel Gonet Blanc de Blancs Brut Reserve NV
In a world of beautiful champagnes and famous grandes marques, I love a perfectly balanced blanc des blancs every time. Gonet’s single vineyard champagne (from Rs7895) from Le-Mesnil-sur-Oger (Gonet shares a boundary wall with some very famous names) offers relative value and stunning notes of delicate apple, brioche, and lemon zest with a dash of minerality and tiny, persistent mousse.
Ribera del Duero: Bodegas La Horra Corimbo 2016
Move over Rioja, your powerful cousin (same grape, different name – Tempranillo is called Tinta del Pais here) from Ribera del Duero is winning hearts and palates everywhere. Ribera del Duero is justifiably famous for its red wines, and one sip will tell you why. Corimbo (Rs 5495) from Bodegas La Horra is owned by the same owners of Bodegas RODA in Rioja, and offers a structured, black fruit-dominated wine, with character and finesse. Absolutely delicious.
Rosé champagnes: Laurent Perrier rosé, Billecart Salmon rosé, Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Reserve rosé
After the rosé stills, now come the rosé champagnes. The first two brands (Laurent Perrier rosé is from Rs 9950 and Billecart Salmon rosé is from Rs17399) are world-famous for their pink champagnes with good reason. Beautifully structured, laden with fruit, and textured, they are perfect for any special occasion pop. Nicolas Feuillatte (Rs 6995) is a CM rosé champagne that has made its name for its excellent quality-price ratio.
White in Tuscany: Querciabella Batàr 2018
Italy is dominated by its stunning red wines, but among the whites, comes Batàr (Rs15795) from Tuscan biodynamic star Querciabella, a white wine made of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco – an icon white that’s very reminiscent of top Burgundy crus. I was lucky enough to taste it at the winery some time ago and was blown away by its delicacy and precision – it held its own and then some in a tasting lineup of Querciabella’s famous reds (which are also worthy buys).
Classics worth the spend
Famous names, iconic brands, and stellar styles. Here are a few picks from the top bright and beautiful wines available in India.
Australian icon: Penfolds Collection Bin 389 and Bin 2
Who has not heard of Australia’s most famous super-premium brand, Penfolds? But its iconic Grange aside, Penfolds also makes some superb wines, which are available in India. Look out for the structured Cabernet-Shiraz blend, the Bin 389 (aka the Baby Grange, referred to by winemaker Peter Gago as the ‘perennial overachiever’) at the higher end (11,100/-), and the affordable Bin 2 Shiraz Mataro which is very appealing at the less pricey end (Rs 3800).
Chablis: William Fevre 2015
I am a self-confessed acid head (sounds weird, but hey!) so a well-crafted Chablis is always on my go-to list. Among the ones available, I open the William Fevre (Rs 5500) quite often, along with the Albert Bichot Domaine Long Depaquit (Rs 3890). So refreshing, you can run through a few glasses without thinking twice.
Gems from Gaja: Ca’ Marcanda Promis and Sito Moresco
We are talking classics here, so Gaja must be on the list. The legendary and hugely-respected Barbaresco producer doesn’t produce wines that are cheap and cheerful, but if you are shy to splash out on his famous Barbaresco (Rs 34,700), there are other gems among his extensive list of excellently-crafted wines. I personally like the Super-Tuscan Ca’Marcanda Promis 2017 (Rs 7400) a concentrated blend of Merlot, Syrah, and Sangiovese which delivers quality every time, along with the Sito Moresco (Rs 6100) a delicious Nebbiolo-led blend from his native Piedmont.
Magic of Montalcino: Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2017
No list of classics can be complete without Brunello di Montalcino on the list, and thankfully, there are now a few to choose from in India. My special favourite is Il Poggione (Rs 8795), the low profile overachieving brand which consistently produces some great wine across vintages.
Chateauneuf-du-Pape: Beaucastel 2017, Chapoutier La Bernardine 2016 and St Cosme 2019
Another must-have on any list of classics is Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The Southern Rhone’s biggest AOC has some excellent samples available in India. My all-time favourite Chateau de Beaucastel (Rs 26900) comes from the famous Perrin family which is well-known for its skillful winemaking, and is available for a price – after all, it is a star among star wines. If you love the appellation, you could also try noted Northern Rhone producer Chapoutier’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Bernadine 2016 (Rs 6490) and Saint Cosme Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2019 (Rs 9495) by maverick Rhone producer Louis Barruol.
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc : Cloudy Bay, Dog Point
New Zealand’s signature style of Sauvignon Blanc has placed the tiny nation on the map of premium winemaking countries and created legions of fans who will drink nothing else. The first and most famous label, Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (Rs 3585) has attained cult status. There is also the wholly organic Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (Rs 4295). All beautiful , pure and delectable.
Classic Burgundy: Louis Jadot Pouilly Fuisse 2020
It is a fact well-known that a well-made Chardonnay from Burgundy is one of the world’s great white wines. Top Burgundy crus are rarely found available in India, but at a lesser level, there are some worthy picks on retail shelves. His Pouilly Fuisse 2020 (Rs 5300) is an excellently made wine. Something simpler appeals more? Try the Louis Jadot Bourgogne Chardonnay 2020 (Rs 3100).
Bordeaux: St Emilion de Quintus 2018
When powerhouse estate Domaine Clarence Dillon turned to focus on India, it decided to bring in its new acquisition, Château Quintus from Saint-Emilion, or as they affectionately call it, the ‘fifth child’ in the Haut-Brion family. Saint Emilion de Quintus is the third wine from the Château Quintus family (yes, it’s complicated!) A highly-rated estate all Château Quintus’ wines are made by the Château Haut Brion team including Saint Emilion de Quintus (Rs 7650) which is a delightful Merlot-dominated wine with smooth-as-silk tannins, ripe berry fruit, and a lingering finish. Well worth the spend if you find the top wine too expensive.
Napa Valley California: Duckhorn Merlot 2012
Go, USA! California wines are finally being appreciated by Indian wine aficionados, and top producers are now finding their way here – like Duckhorn Vineyards. Duckhorn is one of Napa valley’s top names (the estate is listed on the New York Stock Exchange since 2021), and they clearly don’t fall prey to the Sideways dictum as their award-winning Merlot (their primary focus) delivers on all fronts. Elegant and smooth, with ripe red fruit primary aromas layered with oak (vanilla, sweet spice, smoke) and a long finish.
Main image: Pexels/Adrien Olichon