English wine is on song
There is no better time than spring and summer to visit English vineyards, located a short distance from London. An award-winning range of sparkling and still wines along with vineyard tours and tutored tastings await. In this article, I focus on Kent’s most noted wineries
A decade or so ago, no one really wrote home about the wines of England and Wales (nor English food, TBH). But how things have changed! The quality arc of English wines has been spectacular, nudged along with huge improvements in the vineyards and winery, understanding which grapes and clones work best in England’s marginal climate, and of course, technology in winemaking. A whole industry has grown around this quality spike in English wine, with restaurants and hotels quick to showcase local produce, boutique inns, and gastropubs getting recognised for their top-rated offerings and a mushrooming of Michelin-star dining in the countryside.
There is no better time to discover this quality at London’s doorstep than in spring and summer, when long days and bright sunshine call for a sojourn to the beautiful English countryside.
Here are some of Kent’s most noted and awarded wineries. (Please note, advance bookings for tours and tastings are recommended – Ed).
Ruth and Charles Simpson in their vineyards
Simpson’s Wine Estate
Started by the husband and wife team of Ruth and Charles Simpson, established winemakers in southern France with their Domaine de Sainte Rose, Simpson’s has quickly built a reputation for producing top-quality still as well as sparkling wines, working to maximise the effects of terroir in their 30 acres of vineyards located in Barnham, Kent.
What to do: Simpson’s does not have a restaurant on-site, but it does offer tours around their vineyards and winery (3 hours) including the iconic Roman Road vineyard, planted with Burgundian clones. You may choose a tasting of their sparkling and award-winning still wines (1.5 hours, £25 per head) with an option to buy the wines if you like. Don’t miss trying out the infamous helter-skelter shute which provides a fast, fun way to descend to terra firma after a tasting!
Only wine tasting £12.50 per adult.
Top wines to Taste: Simpsons is among the few wineries noted as much for their excellent still wines along with their sparkling. Try their Roman Road Chardonnay 2018, which shows great purity of fruit, while their sold-out Derringstone Pinot Meunier 2018 is said to be the first still Pinot Meunier made in the UK, uniquely vinified as a white wine. Their Rabbit Hole Pinot Noir 2018 is arguably one of the best still Pinots made in the UK.
Address: The Barns, Church Lane, Barham, Canterbury, Kent, CT4 6PB
Contact: info@simpsonswine.com
The Bottle Store restaurant at Squerryes
Squerryes Winery and Vineyard
On the other hand, at Squrryes sparkling is king, and vintage sparkling at that. Eighth generation owner Henry Warde’s portfolio consists of just three sparkling wines: the vintage blanc de Blancs, a vintage rosé, and the vintage blanc de noirs, all made with extended time on lees. All multi-award-winning, unique, and quite delicious. Squerryes is located at Westerham, the foot of the scenic North Downs.
What to do: Squerryes has the advantage of being a short 1-hour drive out of London, and its Bottle Store restaurant offers a wide range of wine (non-English as well) in their list curated by Laura Evans MW, along with chef-driven English cuisine by Chef Alexander Baillieu. On a fine day, their alfresco terrace restaurant is filled with diners enjoying the delicious food and sipping on sparkling rosé. They also have a store on the premises which sells top English produce including English wine and cheese. Their weekend brunches are popular as well. An enjoyable day out for wine and food aficionados.
You can also book a weekend tour and tasting (90 minutes, £32 per head) or a private group tour of Squerryes Court, the historic family home for 100 per head.
Wines to try: All three Squerryes sparklers: the vintage rosé 2018, the vintage Brut 2017, and the vintage blanc de blanc 2016 are must-tries.
Address: Beggars Lane, Westerham, Kent TN161QP
Contact: celebrations@squerryes.co.uk
Vineyard tour at Balfour Winery
Balfour Winery
Balfour co-founders Richard and Leslie Balfour-Lynn ‘s vineyards were planted in 2002, and their now- iconic Balfour Brut rosé 2004 (modelled on their personal favourite Billecart-Salmon’s rosé champagne) won its first major award at the International Wine Challenge five years on, making them among the pioneers of the English sparkling wine industry. Today, Balfour is home to a range of top-rated sparkling and still wines, made by second-generation chief winemaker Fergus Elias.
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- Dining at Balfour Winery
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- The terrace
What to do: The wine tasting and vineyard tours (free self-guided also an option) are an excellent way to spend a summer’s day (self-guided or expert-led from £45 to £65), winding up with a meal, along with the tasting masterclass (£25 to £35). If you want to make a day of it the options are from £195 which include pick up and drop from the train station (The winery is 45 minutes by train from London), tutored tasting, tours, and a 3-course meal. If you want to spend the night in picturesque Kent, Balfour also owns several inns and pubs in their neighborhood for the full ‘English countryside’ experience.
Top wines to taste: The Balfour Brut rosé is a perennial favourite and a must-try (my own English sparkling wine ‘aha moment’ some years ago). Among the stills, Balfour The Winemakers’ Collection Red Miller 2018 and Balfour The Winemaker’s Collection Suitcase Pinot Noir 2018 Kent are noteworthy, while lovers of a minerally, textured Chardonnay might enjoy Balfour Skye’s Chardonnay 2019.
Address: Five Oak Ln, Staplehurst, Tonbridge TN12 0HT,
Contact: info@balfourwinery.com
Luxury picnics can be booked at Gusbourne
Gusbourne Estate
Another pioneering winery (with vineyards from 2004), Gusbourne has added a range of still wines ( Pinot Noir and Chardonnay produced only in the best vintages) along with their award-winning sparkling wines, including their flagship Gusbourne blanc de Blancs made from classic champagne grapes. Gusbourne is proud of the fact that they use only estate-grown grapes.
What to do: A vineyard tour and tasting is from £25, while a full winery and vineyard tour followed by tasting and lunch is from £75. Gusbourne offers a range of wine-led experiences including tutored tastings, Michelin-star headlined meals at regular intervals.
Address: Kenardington Road, Appledore, Kent TN26 2BE
Contact: nest@gusbourne.com
Harvest at Biddenden
Biddenden Vineyards
Three generations of the Barnes family have run Biddendum since 1969, and they use only estate-grown grapes, handpick their grapes and make their wine on-site. They grow 11 grapes varieties on 23 acres including Ortega (a German cross of Müller-Thurgau and Siegerrebe) for which they are best known.
What to do: Try the self-guided vineyard tours (£10 per head including a tasting of 3 wines) as well as guided ones (£40). They have a shop where you can buy the wines you fancy.
Wines to taste: Biddenden has won awards for its Bacchus 2018, Gribble Bridge Dornfelder 2020, and Gribble Bridge Demi-Sec sparkling Ortega 2018, among others
Address: Gribble Bridge Lane,
Biddenden,
Kent,
TN27 8DF
Contact: info@biddendenvineyards.co.uk
Chapel Down’s Kit’s Coty vineyards
Chapel Down Winery
Regarded as the English wine industry’s big daddy, Chapel Down, Britain’s best-known sparkling wine producer and most highly-awarded winery has notched up multiple series of firsts, including being the first to expand its still wines portfolio with a Chapel Down beer, gin, and vodka. They are justifiably famous for introducing the hitherto unknown white grape, Bacchus, and elevating it to create an award-winning wine (or five) which has inspired many other wineries to follow in their footsteps. Their famous Kit’s Coty vineyard is planted with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir as well as Meunier and Bacchus and is worth a visit.
What to do: There is a swath of vineyard and winery tours (from £25), but of course, as well as a well-appointed shop, two tasting rooms, a bar, and a full-fledged restaurant, The Swan serving fine dining multi-course meals (reservations required).
Top Wines to taste: With so many options it might be hard to choose, but I would say don’t miss the Kit’s Coty Chardonnay and Bacchus, the Provence-pale English Rose if you’re a rosé drinker and of course, the headline-grabbing Kit’s Coty Coeur de Cuvée and the blanc de Blancs. Pick up a Chapel Down Bacchus Gin (made from single vintage grapes) to take something home which is different and wholly English.
Address: Small Hythe, Tenterden
Kent
TN30 7NG
Contact: retail@chapeldown.com
For more details on visiting Kent wineries, see www.winegardenofengland.co.uk
