May 2018

As Torres reestablishes itself as one of the world’s best wine brands, Miguel A. Torres’ continued personal commitment to innovation and preservation continues – as demonstrated at his Delhi masterclass, complete with a dash of humour and sips of  three vintages of his top-rated Cabernet Sauvignon, Mas La Plana

The world of wine has its share of heroes.

Many of these people make wine their life’s single largest passion. A rarer few have the ability to see beyond the production of wine to embrace an earth-friendly ideology that looks into the future, even as their brand flourishes.

Miguel A Torres is one of these people.

I first met Torres, patriarch of Spain’s 300-year-old-Catalonia-based Bodegas Torres many years ago in Bengaluru. Subsequently, I have interviewed him several times, each time I have been struck with his focus, not only in growing his brand, but in leading the wine world by example. At Vinexpo 2017, he was part of a high-powered panel speaking on how the inevitable climate change will impact the wines we drink. On Saturday 12^th May 2018, he was back in India on a visit, and while leading a masterclass on his portfolio star Mas La Plana, he went back to his pet topic, on climate change.

“We need a balance,” he said, explaining in simple terms, “Today, Torres is preparing for an uncertain future, not because of war but because of global warming.” Carbon pollution has already crossed the danger level of 400 ppm, he pointed out. “At 500 ppm we will be back to paleolithic times. Pollution kills more people than traffic accidents.”

Bodegas Torres was already prepping for the challenges to come, changing viticulture techniques gradually over the last several decades, working to reduce carbon footprint, instituting international awards for energy-saving techniques. The eco-positive roles are embraced fully and sincerely. Torres has been buying vineyards in areas still considered too cold to grow wine grapes – this is forward-thinking if anything is.

One aspect that is constant is Torres’ commitment to the revival of ancestral grape varieties. There is also considerable investment in research (€1 million annually), and a commitment to reinvest 95% of profits made.

No wonder Torres is named Drinks International’s Most Admired Wine Brand in the world – reclaiming their title in 2017 from Penfolds. Miguel A. Torres was also awarded the Lifetime Achievement award by the Institute of the Masters of Wine in 2017. The recognition keeps piling up, establishing Torres firmly as one of the world’s best wine brands.

So then what brings him to India every year?

It’s long-term vision. “India changed me,” says the 77-year-old who visits the gym every day and regularly practices his yoga. Torres entered India in 1995, and has been building on the brand ever since, spending a whopping €2 billion to date, he says. “You have to be crazy or part of a family to do this!”

True.

But the indefatigable patriarch has a dream, he reveals. “My own dream.” And India is part of it.

 

Mas La Plana Masterclass

A homage to the terroir of Torres in the Penedès, this wine’s distinctive black-and-gold label stands apart from the rest of the portfolio. A brainchild of Miguel A. Torres, Mas La Plana broke prevalent Spanish winegrowing norms of the 1970s – a single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, grown at a time when neither single vineyards nor Cabernet Sauvignons were given importance in Catalonia. Mas La Plana beat famous French classed growths at Gault Millau’s famous 1979 Paris Wine Olympics, and stories of that memorable tasting, as Torres recounts them, are both telling and humourous. Mas La Plana is aged in new French barrels, and the oak is evident though never dominating the fruit. Nods Torres, “The oak is the frame, it should never become the painting.”

Mas La Plana 2006: In magnum, this wine opens to gorgeous cherries and red berries, liquorice, chocolate and a hint of truffle on the nose, rich and elegant on the palate with a mile-long finish. Drinking beautifully, but will keep.

Mas La Plana 2010: Europe’s ‘vintage of the century’ has created a wine of beautiful elegance, restraint and balance, with coffee-redcurrant notes on the nose carrying through onto the palate as tannins soften into a perfect, long finish.

Mas La Plana 2012: The bright red fruit, cigar box and hints of herbs and spice dominate at the first whiff, tannins are more evident than earlier vintages but this is a memorably gorgeous lush red wine. Keep or drink right away – if you can get your hands on a good rib-eye.

Torres Mas La Plana is available for sale on request.

Write to Sarang Kumar at info@prestigewinesandspirits.com for details.

Current prices (subject to revision) Rs 7950, Mumbai & Delhi.