June 2016

The Maltese Cross and the Secret Garden

June 28, 2016

A visit to Champagne brought me to a special little urban vineyard in the heart of Reims: Clos Lanson

Clos Lanson

Several months ago, during a trip to France, I visited a secret garden in the heart of Champagne. Secret because it was situated in the centre of Reims, Champagne’s largest town. And really, this garden wasn’t really a garden at all – it was a vineyard, and nothing like Enid Blyton might have ever imagined. This was the urban vineyard of Reims’ famous grande maison of Lanson known by its symbol of a distinctive red Maltese cross. I discovered it as Lyne Descotes, my guide for the afternoon, led me through the winery consisting of lengths of cool, grand and dimly lit cellars and chais, dominated by steel tanks and barrels where wines from individual plots were silently vinifying; she led me through the grand historic vinotheque, where hundreds of bottles (some vintages dating back to 1904) stood sur pointe. Finally, she opened a door and there was a sudden flash of bright, lush green vines against a clear afternoon sky.

Lanson: the winery

This was Clos Lanson. An anomaly among vineyards and the pride of Lanson. A one-hectare plot growing top quality Chardonnay, protected by 18^th century walls painted white. No gimmick this: the secret plot from where the majestic Reims cathedral is visible a short distance away has a wonderful chalky soil and the perfect micro-climate for producing Chardonnay. “Each year on the first Saturday of September, the team who works at Lanson along with their families, take care of the harvest,” says Descotes. “Planted in the 1960s, it has remained within the purview of the House ever since.” No professional pickers here; the occasion of harvest is one of celebration and joy, much like a family harvesting the produce of its own farm. The Lanson harvest is one of the earliest in the Champagne region because of its location and warmer climate which leads to earlier ripening. The vines’ average age is about 35 years.

In 2016, the precious ‘secret’ of House Lanson was out.

Herve Dantan, the man behind the Lanson wines

At the end of April this year, Lanson’s chef de cave Hervé Dantan released the first vintage of Clos Lanson with much fanfare. It was the 2006 vintage. Nine years in the making, and a mere 7,870 bottles produced. Later that afternoon after my tour of the beautiful property I sat in the Lanson tasting room sipping some of of the stunning Noble Cuvée Brut vintage 2000 (30% Pinot Noir, 70% Chardonnay) in lieu of a cup of tea (would you argue with the choice?). Marie-Albane d’Utruy, press liaison officer explained how precious the Clos Lanson vineyard was to the champagne house. “Men who cultivate the vine here do so with exquisite attention. Given its unique and extraordinary nature, Clos Lanson’s vines are subjected to almost surgical care. Of course, Lanson does not use any insecticides or pesticides, and Clos Lanson is farmed biodynamically too. Philippe Baijot, president of the House, has decided to offer Clos wines to connoisseurs of Champagne.”

My ‘afternoon tea’ a special Noble Cuvee Brut Vintage 2000

Lanson is known for its special cuvées, all precisely blended to a degree of great complexity. It is also known for its choice of vinification without malolactic fermentation. Clos Lanson is made from the first gentle pressing of the grapes and vinified in oak barrels for several months. The vintage Blanc de Blanc is then aged for an additional 7 years on lees. The dosage is low, around 3g/l. The champagne is hand-riddled by the master riddlers in the tradition of all their special cuvées. Last reports said Clos Lanson 2006 was selling at €200, if you could find a bottle.

With the addition of Clos Lanson, the house joins other venerable Champagne houses making single vineyard vintage champagnes: Krug and its Clos du Mesnil and Clos d’Ambonnay and Philipponnat with its Clos des Goisses.

But with its urban cityscape, the tucked-away Clos Lanson is a vineyard like no other.

Champagne Lanson

66, rue de Courlancy – 51100 Reims – France

Visits by prior appointments only at http://www.lanson.com/

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Winery Visits

Norway and Paris on a plate…and in a glass

June 14, 2016

The family summer holiday in Norway and Paris led to some interesting wine and food discoveries…..

Norwegian Mood

Gavlax and more. Scandic Ornen, Bergen. Mussels salad at lunch at Roast, Scandic Ørnen. In the background: crab salad.

Gravlax (left) and mussels salad, part of the lunch at Roast, Scandic Ørnen

There’s salmon, and then there’s Norwegian salmon. And then, so much more. Like the pickled herring to the nutty caramelized brown cheese for a Scandinavian-style breakfast, or the all-seafood dinner spread put out for our group of nearly 300 – an eye-popping smorgasbord of deliciousness aboard a dinner cruise on the handsome Norwegian barque Statsraad Lehmukul anchored at Norway’s prettiest, most historical city, Bergen. Later, we chatted with Fredrick Hald, executive chef in charge of product development of Lerøy Seafood, Norway’s largest sustainable seafood producers and the world’s second largest producer of salmon, who organized the dinner. He said that there was much more to Norway than their famed salmon (laks). They took immense pride in the quality of their cod and trout, for instance.

White chocolate and fresh fruit – a wonderful dessert by Bocuse d’Or 2015 winner Chef Ørjan Johannessen at Bekkjarvik Gjestgiveri. Earlier, we drank the unusual blend Ca del Magro Custoza Superiore from Azienda Agricola Monte del Fra 2013

The seafood theme set the tone for a gastronomically indulgent two weeks in Norway. One notable meals was a short ferry boat ride away at a restaurant called Bekkjarvik Gjestgiveri (5397 Bekkjarvik), on a small island just outside Bergen, where chef Ørjan Johannessen (winner of Bocuse d’Or 2015) and his brother Arnt, put out a lovely three course lunch of – seafood, of course – crayfish with shrimp followed by delicate monkfish for the mains accompanied by a white wine, Custoza Superiore “Ca’ del Magro” Monte del Frà from Azienda Agricola Monte del Fra (a unique blend of Garganega, Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Cortese and the Incrocio Manzoni, as I discovered). Dessert was a gorgeous fresh berry and white chocolate dessert with the fresh, fruit-laden sweet wine, Falchetto Brachetto d’acqui 2013. The next day, at the rooftop grill restaurant, Roast at the Scandic Ørnen, ( Lars Hilles gate 18, 5008 Bergen) a view of Bergen combined rather beautifully with a lunch of fresh and diverse seafood and Prosecco.

More memories were created at Restaurant Lofoten (Stranden 75, 0250 Oslo) on Oslo’s Aker Brygge seafront. As we watched the sun set into the sea, we dined on a flavourful fish soup, scallops with stewed apple and balsamic reduction for starters; and salmon in miso broth with fresh enoki, and lobster for the mains. The wine, recommended by our server, was a stunning Albariño from Rias Baixas, Spain: Santiago Ruiz O Rosal 2014: aromatic fruit and minerality coming together powerfully, the structure strong, the finish long. One of the most balanced, more-ish whites I’ve tasted in ages, and one now entered in my little notebook.

Did I eat only fish? No. We indulged in other Scandinavian delicacies like elk, reindeer, venison (I drew the line at whale). But for me, the hero of the trip was the seafood.

On drink: Norway has very strict laws relating to consumption of alcohol. Ergo, only beverages with 4.7% abv or under may be found on supermarket shelves. The rest, including wine and beer, are available only at the state-run Vinmonopolet, even the local aquavit (akevitt). Norway makes some very basic wine of their own, but brings in many good imported brands.

Paris when it drizzles

After wonderful weather in Norway, the law of drizzly averages hit us and when we landed in Paris the deluge had started. No matter. I’d decided skip the Michelin stars this visit and try the next rung of equally well-rated but smaller bistros and brasseries on the Left Bank this time. It would be a culinary adventure of gastronomic discovery. Or as Edith Piaf might have husked, “C’est si bon.”

Rainy days and foie gras

Foie gras platter at Le Petit Prince. Tortellini, petit pois, ricotta et bouillon de champignon, Frenchie bar a vins

Foie gras platter at Le Petit Prince. Veloute de courgette, tartine de courteau, sur pate feuilletee at Frenchie bar a vins

I’ve dined at Le Petit Prince de Paris (12 Rue de Lanneau, 75005 Paris) before, and the restaurant, true Parisian style, is tiny, with tables so close you can inhale your neighbour’s perfume. No matter, they were ready to feed us, and with a bottle of Pierre Amadieu Romane-Machotte 2013 from Gigondas, Rhône on the table, I ordered a platter of foie gras. Added a smidge of fig jam… and all’s right with the world.

Vive la différence: Quaint, tiny and characterful.One of the few eateries open late (until midnight) and on a Sunday. Usually unheard of in France. (more…)

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Taste of Food and Wine / Tastings