The family summer holiday in Norway and Paris  led to some interesting wine and food discoveries…..

Norwegian Mood

Gravlax  (left) and  mussels salad, part of the lunch at Roast, Scandic Ørnen

There’s salmon, and then there’s Norwegian salmon. And then, so much more. Like the pickled herring to the nutty caramelized brown cheese for a Scandinavian-style breakfast, or the all-seafood dinner spread put out for our group of nearly 300 – an eye-popping smorgasbord of deliciousness aboard a dinner cruise on the handsome Norwegian barque Statsraad Lehmukul anchored at Norway’s prettiest, most historical city, Bergen. Later, we chatted with Fredrick Hald, executive chef in charge of product development of Lerøy Seafood, Norway’s largest sustainable seafood producers and the world’s second largest producer of salmon, who organized the dinner. He said that there was much more to Norway than their famed salmon (laks). They took immense pride in the quality of their cod and trout, for instance.

White chocolate and fresh fruit – a wonderful dessert by Bocuse d’Or 2015 winner Chef Ørjan Johannessen at Bekkjarvik Gjestgiveri. Earlier, we drank the unusual blend Ca del Magro Custoza Superiore from Azienda Agricola Monte del Fra 2013

The seafood theme set the tone for a gastronomically indulgent two weeks in Norway. One notable meals was a short ferry boat ride away at a restaurant called Bekkjarvik Gjestgiveri (5397 Bekkjarvik), on a small island just outside Bergen, where chef Ørjan Johannessen (winner of Bocuse d’Or 2015) and his brother Arnt, put out a lovely three course lunch of – seafood, of course – crayfish with shrimp followed by delicate monkfish for the mains accompanied by a white wine, Custoza Superiore “Ca’ del Magro” Monte del Frà from Azienda Agricola Monte del Fra (a unique blend of Garganega, Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Cortese and the Incrocio Manzoni, as I discovered). Dessert was a gorgeous fresh berry and white chocolate dessert with the fresh, fruit-laden sweet wine, Falchetto Brachetto d’acqui 2013. The next day, at the rooftop grill restaurant, Roast at the Scandic Ørnen, ( Lars Hilles gate 18, 5008 Bergen) a view of Bergen combined rather beautifully with a lunch of fresh and diverse seafood and Prosecco.

More memories were created at Restaurant Lofoten (Stranden 75, 0250 Oslo) on Oslo’s Aker Brygge seafront. As we watched the sun set into the sea, we dined on a flavourful fish soup, scallops with stewed apple and balsamic reduction for starters; and salmon in miso broth with fresh enoki, and lobster for the mains. The wine, recommended by our server, was a stunning Albariño from Rias Baixas, Spain: Santiago Ruiz O Rosal 2014: aromatic fruit and minerality coming together powerfully, the structure strong, the finish long. One of the most balanced, more-ish whites I’ve tasted in ages, and one now entered in my little notebook.

Did I eat only fish? No. We indulged in other Scandinavian delicacies like elk, reindeer, venison (I drew the line at whale). But for me, the hero of the trip was the seafood.

On drink: Norway has very strict laws relating to consumption of alcohol. Ergo, only beverages with 4.7% abv or under may be found on supermarket shelves. The rest, including wine and beer, are available only at the state-run Vinmonopolet, even the local  aquavit (akevitt). Norway makes some very basic wine of their own, but brings in many good imported brands.

Paris when it drizzles

After wonderful weather in Norway, the law of drizzly averages hit us and when we landed in Paris the deluge had started. No matter. I’d decided skip the Michelin stars this visit and try the next rung of equally well-rated but smaller bistros and brasseries on the Left Bank this time. It would be a culinary adventure of gastronomic discovery. Or as Edith Piaf might have husked, “C’est si bon.”

Rainy days and foie gras

Foie gras platter at Le Petit Prince. Veloute de courgette, tartine de courteau, sur pate feuilletee at Frenchie bar a vins

I’ve dined at Le Petit Prince de Paris (12 Rue de Lanneau, 75005 Paris) before, and the restaurant, true Parisian style, is tiny, with tables so close you can inhale your neighbour’s perfume. No matter, they were ready to feed us, and with a bottle of Pierre Amadieu Romane-Machotte 2013 from Gigondas, Rhône on the table, I ordered a platter of foie gras. Added a smidge of fig jam… and all’s right with the world.

Vive la différence: Quaint, tiny and characterful.One of the few eateries open late (until midnight) and on a Sunday. Usually unheard of in France.  (more…)